I changed the original one at 100k with Honda part.
Are these good with 44k miles on it?
Cap does not look too bad, you need to look a the metal end on the rotor, but they are pretty cheap, enough carbon build up it might be time. so replace them if you have doubts. What is the problem? PS do not touch the inside of the distributor cap with bare fingers.
Thanks - I am getting misfire. I was asked to change this.
I thought of inspecting - there is another guy who had the issue at 101k! Replacing the Cap fixed. From the link below, his Cap is also like mine or worse - what do u think? You could enlarge my photo by clicking it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-fTLKDlXMCQ
I see some burn marks on them. You said “I was asked to replace this” Real cheap to replace, Rock auto has some sets for less than $20, Advance less than $50.
Yes but no one inspected it.
Rock auto is cheap - $20 vs north of $75 at the dealer!
I have been using OEM - so wondering!
First you have an emissions NOx failure with very low HC, now you say you have a misfire, which would actually lower NOx but give sky-high HC. What’s going on with this car?
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If I know the answers, i am not here!
Random misfire at idle is just started. Never had this in any of my cars.
In the thread about PCV somebody was asking about the compression readings.
did you get these done?
if yes, what are the numbers?
I’ve seen rotors that look perfectly fine, but are cracked and let moisture in. You need a magnifying glass to see the crack.
It appears that trying to help sciconf is just a waste of time . Several threads about the same vehicle and he just keeps jumping around and will not do what the excellent mechanics have suggested.
Just putting this thing in a shop for a diagnosis for a fee will tell him whether to repair it or just move on.
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Agree with @VOLVO-V70 , there are a lot of things I will try to repair myself and many that I turn to a professional.
My impression of the OP
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There’s a way to test for it, but it’s unpleasant. Get some water on the distributor cap, then start the car and touch the distributor cap. If you get a flash of pain and your hand goes numb, it’s cracked. 
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Both look fine to me. Unless the cap is cracked or carbon tracked there is no need to replace it unless it has 8 million miles on it and the terminals are burned away. Cracks and carbon tracks should be visible to the naked eye.
You should get back to your usual job of spell & grammar checking! You don’t have the etiquette and own multiple account in this forum. As reported before people went away from CarTalk because of you.
And, usually, I just delete when I see your postings in my inbox. Never read them as there has never been any value.
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Thanks MikeInNH
I will only say stick with OEM.
I once saw a Honda with a perfectly fine looking aftermarket cap that wouldn’t run at all.
Oh boy, that looks pretty bad. Has this car been in an accident? I would take a look at the PCV and maybe do a compression check. That rotor has indications of high NOX.
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As said previously replace them, that is a pretty (ugly) pitted rotor.
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they look good to go i think