Dodge never made a 454. They did make a 440, which would have had a four barrel carburetor. Yours is two barrel. The part you are holding is the float valve.
Any king of way they can unrestrict my 20 limit
Shannon , instead of making so many posts just edit and add on to the ones you have. And as mentioned you do not need to answer every reply , all of your posts are seen by everyone.
You really need to take a break. Find information on how to rebuild that carb, buy the kit, and do it. If you canāt afford this, how are you going to keep an RV on the road? They are natural born money pits.
First step, figure out exactly what engine you have.
In the way of perspective, I was having problems w/my Ford truck of the same era a couple of years ago, Iād come to the stop sign and it would stall. I tried this and that, and the only solution was for me to take the time to rebuild the carb. Which worked wonders, engine has been performing nearly like new since. Well until a couple months ago when it developed a stalling problem , but that was not related to the carb.
If you ask around at some of the more experienced shops, you may have to go to a shop who works on race or classic cars, but youāll eventually find a mechanic whoāll gladly rebuild it for you. For a fee of course, probably around $350. Another option is to purchase a new or already rebuilt carb. This latter option I wouldnāt suggest, and if you try it be sure the keep possession of the original carb.
Rebuilding a carb takes some time but otherwise isnāt overly difficult and the rebuild kit is usually inexpensive. A carb is basically just like two tin cans glued together. One can holds the fuel and the other is the path for air into the engine. The two cans are connected by a an upside down u-shaped soda-straw that provides a path for fuel to be drawn up and out of the fuel can and sprayed it into the air can. Thereās a hole at the top of that straw to limit the amount of fuel sprayed. Have you ever tried to drink a can of coca cola using a faulty straw that has a hole midway up? You soon discover you canāt get nearly a much flow from that no-good straw as a good straw, right? The carb uses that hole in the straw effect to its benefit, and that hole is called the air bleed.
My description above is greatly simplified of course. Your carb isnāt made of tin cans, and it uses internal passages rather than straws. But it does have air bleed holes, you can see them in your photo. And you carb has the float stuff to maintain the fuel level constant, and has a method of enriching the mixture during acceleration, and when the engine is cold.
On a carb like yours that has been sitting those air bleeds are probably completely or somewhat clogged, and thatās going to make the carb run way to rich. So thatās why it needs to be rebuilt, part of the rebuild is cleaning out those air bleeds, along with cleaning the straws, the float stuff, and the acceleration and cold engine stuff. .
About those air bleeds, the central upright vent is below the air filter and is unlikely to be plugged and the bent tube bent was connected to a valve with a hose tied in to the evaporative emissions system which likely no longer operates and being plugged wonāt cause a running problem.
The fuel inlet seat has a gasket that is likely a rubber ring which is by now crumbling and leaking fuel into the bowl. Replacing that ring might end the flooding but all the other rubber pieces will be deteriorated as well.
In the upper left of your photo, is that a crack and gap in the metal - as if the metal has been bent and broken?
PS - I mean the photo with the title āHope this works heres the float thing u asked for keith.ā
Shannon-
Have you watched any of the Youtube videos on how to rebuild this carb?
If anyone still looking at this finaly after 2 hours of trying to get daytona co to answer the dam phone found my carb is a holley 2245 what should a use to soak it I looked online and theres people using pinesole is that a joke or for real
Spray carburetor cleaner will work with a little determination. Pine-sol might make it smell better but I canāt imagine it cleaning out the jets and ports.
Why even consider Pine-sol when they make stuff to clean carbs with .
So carb cleaner spray to soak it? thatās alot of spray bottles lol do they sell like buckets of it for soaking I cant seem to find much online is price range of 20-30
Ok nevermind maybe itās me when I took the whole carb apart to clean with the carb cleaner spray I took out ever brass thing I could and sprayed it clean and the cleaner went in and out the holes without issue so would I still really need to soak it?
No. Soaking is not necessary.
This is great
but not necessary for the DIYer.
Iām starting to think the old guy I bought this rv from didnt really have it sitting for 10 years like he said because the carburetor as it may need cleaned really dont look to be in bad shape the brass peices that has manufactured holes in them wasnt gummed up and just had some grayish green looking stuff on the outside of them but I sprayed both outside and inside the brass peices but I did realize this rubbed piece was crack and when I found the carb I have realized that rubber peice was installed upside down
Iāve never done anything except spray Gumout. I did use Seafoam on my generator carb with some limited success soaking the jet. The only problem with Gumout is that it dries pretty fast so not too good for soaking.
While youāre chasing problems look around for an EGR valve and if you donāt see one in the intake look down to the bottom of the intake manifold directly below the carburetor. Some late 70s and early 80s models had jets screwed into the intake to allow exhaust from the cross over to allow exhaust gas into the intake to control nitrous oxide emissions.
Re: spray vs soak
For nearly 50 years I had always been able to rejuvenate my truckās carb using the spray method, but the last time that didnāt work. Had to resort to the soak method, followed by spraying the internal passages with compressed air. Which worked.
One caution with the spray method, be sure to wear full eye protection. The spray will sometimes reverse directions inside the carb (remember the u-shaped straw?) and come right back at your face. Ask me how I discovered this ā¦ lol .
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Lol I checked to area below the carb with the carb completely off and didnt see anything that screws off itās just pipe down there and the spray I used seemed to do I pretty good job but still going to use the rebuilt kit when it comes in
During that era, EGR valves were usually in an adapter plate between the carburetor and the manifold. Prior to the EGR requirement, the only thing between the carb and manifold was a gasket. The adapter was about 3/4" thick and had a hose or pipe going to it. When the port in the adapter clogged up, the engine would usually run better so most people didnāt clean it.