First thing I’d check is the float and its valve. Does the carb have a window where the fuel level is supposed to be? My old Toyota truck’s 20R did. Nifty. If you’re real lucky, hitting the carb with a big rubber hammer or 2X4 may free up a stuck float/valve.
You have either a waterlogged float, stuck float or a leaking needle and seat. The system works like your toilet tank. The float rises as the tank fills and when it reaches the desired level, it shuts off the water.
Fuel is pumped into the carburetor with about 3-7 psi from the fuel pump. If you added an electric fuel pump, you could be running a much higher pressure and that would blow by the needle and seat.
As fuel fills the bowl, the float rises and as it rises, it pushes a rubber tipped needle into a metal seat (round hole) to stop the flow of fuel. Since this has been sitting for ten years, the rubber tip of the needle has probably rotted. It may have worked for a day or two but the fuel eventually washed the rotted rubber away and it is leaking.
The needle and seat are part of a rebuild kit for the carburetor, along with all the gaskets. Not sure what they are priced at anymore or if they are still available. Most people just buy a new or remanufactured carburetor, but if you can get the kit, it would be a good education for you to try a rebuild on your own.
The float does not come in the rebuild kit and if it either has a hole in it or is waterlogged (gasoline logged), you may find it very difficult to find a replacement. New or reman will be your only alternative.
Honestly couldn’t tell you I am a amateur I know how to replace a piston head and get a motor running again but carbs are a new area for me other the cleaning them I have no idea what a carb window is
Yours does not have a window. It is a round piece of glass in the side of the fuel bowl set at the normal fuel level. This is very common on old Japanese cars with carburetors.
Rebuilding your model carburetor is pretty easy but it will help if you can find a Chiltons, Haynes manual for your vehicle or one of their generic carburetor manuals. A quick fix on yours for a needle and seat is to just pull the top cover off, a few screws. The needle and seat are in the cover and the float hangs from the cover.
You don’t have one, so don’t worry about that. Until you replace the float valve with an ethanol resistant one, this will.continue to be an issue.
Ok so the float it like. Brass metal no holes in it not fuel in it but theres this crystalized looking stuff
That carb needs a thorough cleaning and rebuild.
Man I have to buy I kit now that sucks is there no way I can just wire Bush any clogs and just give it a really good clean because I have no idea what carb this is and can find any stamped codes other then a sticker that’s been worn off
Is there a rubber tip on the needle? A clean looking needle can still leak. That is an issue with the Weber carburetors that many old European and Japanese cars have on them as replacements for the original. Most of the time you have to replace the original solid needle (no rubber tip) with a vitron needle (rubber tipped) or they leak.
Also hold the top plate upside down so that the float is closing the needle and insure that it isn’t resting on anything but the tang that closes the needle. There is also a specified clearance between the float and the cover, but I have found that most of the time if the top of the float is exactly parallel with the bottom of the cover when upside down, the clearance will be close enough.
I have always increased the clearance by about another 1/8" to 1/4" because it prevents the fuel from sloshing over the vent and out when cornering hard or doing any spirited driving. It still provides an adequate level so the main jet does not go “dry” even when pushing the limits. It does lean out the mix a slight amount but most are set too rich to begin with because they run better rich than lean. That is one reason why fuel injection tends to improve fuel economy so much, old carbs ran too rich.
If fuel is flowing out the vent holes circled in yellow it is absolutely certain that fuel is flowing into the carburetor when it shouldn’t. And there aren’t any access points engineered into that carburetor other than the needle and seat control valve. Clean it up and put it back together following the instructions and before you start that engine drain and refill the crankcase, pull the plugs and crank the engine over for 10 seconds and leave it alone to dry for an hour before attempting to start it.
So I did the test thing you was talking about but didnt have Time to do measurement it sits on the float and when I push float up it gos up and in fine with no stopping then comes back down to rest on the float idk it any of this extra info is helpful
It has been a long, long time since I have dealt with carburetors. As I remember to get the correct kit would require the missing tab that had embossed codes on it—but I could be wrong. If you choose to do it yourself and if still available you need a bucket of carb cleaner, these are supplied with a parts bucket with screen. Parts are soaked, drained, then reassembled with new parts supplied in the kit.
I would check the price of a rebuilt/remanufactured carb first, then decide if I wanted to tackle it.
Any carb with problems that has been sitting for 10 years requires a rebuild or replacement.
Be very careful with gas spitting out. I started my 59 Pontiac on fire once when the gas spit out. Emptied an extinguisher and ruined my rain coat putting it out.
I notice youndidn’t even tell us the year of this Dodge. If it still has a carb it must be 40 years old. Assume every rubber part in the fuel system is rotted and requires replacement. If don’t replace all the rubber fuel line, be ready for a fire .
It’s a 75 I replaced some of the rubber in the hood area waited on rest of the rubber stuff to come in from ebay but I checked the rubbed is it seems solid enough to get the dam thing running smoothly again I checked the rubber tip and there was no cracks and no rotten parts it seemed the be in really decent shape there was these to valve stim things on inside of the top cover of the carb that was clogged really badly but got carb clean a needle and cleaned it now carb cleaner flows threw them like a perfectly good sparkler lol I also desided to take off bottum of carb turned out needed a new gasket and I checked and cleaned under there and so far not clogs or issues still cleaning it lol
Which test? was this with the cover upside down?
If the needle and seat are good one adjusts a tang on the float to stop fuel flow.