Car starter problem

jeep
liberty

#1

I have Jeep Liberty 2002 with 100300 miles. I having starter problem and the starter was replaced with a new one. Still I am having the same problem, the car can only re-start 30 minutes or more after I shut it off. The mechanic stated that he does not know what it is causing the problem. I need help to find the problem and fix it. Thanks.


#2

Presumably you are saying the engine won’t crank at all for 30 minutes or more?


#3

We need detailed info about the problem in order to help. I have a feeling that the starter is not your problem.


#4

Yes the engine won’t crank at all for 30 minutes or more. This starter was changed but still the problem persisted. The car just won’t crank for 30 minutes or more when it is turned off.


#5

If the starter was replaced, it means the starter solenoid was also replaced as it’s part of the starter assembly.

The no start problem when hot might be caused from the starter relay being effected by heat. Which is located in the underhood fuse box.

Tester


#6

The voltages at the starter motor need to be measured during attempted cranking. Make sure when doing this your battery is fully charged and in new or almost new condition, proved by its load test results. If both measurement are above 10.5 volts, and it won’t crank, the new starter motor is probably bad. If either is below 10.5 volts during attempted cranking (measured between the terminal and starter case) then the starter is probably ok, but there’s a problem somewhere in the circuitry leading up the starter. You mechanic would then work backwards from the starter to determine the cause.


#7

I have the same problem. My Jeep Liberty 2003 has 150,000 miles and just started having this same issue. I can drive it all day then all of a sudden it won’t start. Lights and everything works but nothing when I turn the key. Eventually after several attempts to start it, it will all of a sudden just start up normally. I’m afraid to drive it somewhere and not be able to start it. I had it towed to the repair shop and when it arrived it started. They kept it for 3-4 days and everytime it started so they don’t know what the issue is. I picked it up, drove it home and then it didn’t start again. Don’t know what to do.


#8

Wadco9 and Shermans:
Follow GeorgeSanJose’s advice. At some point you’ll find out where the excessive voltage drop is occurring. It very likely may be the relay that Tester noted.


#9

This trouble could be happening for a couple of reasons. Either full power isn’t getting to the starter solenoid contacts due to a faulty battery cable going to the starter solenoid or there is a problem with the starter solenoid circuit which is provided power through the ignition and safety switches. If you hear a fairly loud single click when you try to start the engine then the trouble is most likely with the battery cable and has internal wire corrosion at the battery post end due to leaching battery acid. If you don’t hear the loud click then check the voltage getting to the starter solenoid coil connection. You should see 12 volts at that point when trying to start the engine. If the voltage is low then you need to check the safety switch and the wire to it for a bad connection to the ignition switch power. A simple test light is really all you need for this testing and a voltmeter is even better.


#10

Something else to try: Shift to neutral and try to start it. Of course, this is just if you have an automatic transmission. This is a long shot, though.


#11

Most times a bad neutral safety switch won’t work in neutral either. If it is the neutral safety switch you will hear nothing when you turn the key. If you have a test light and know how to use it, pull the plug off the neutral safety switch. If it has 4 wires, 2 of them are for the backup lights. Have someone turn the key to start while you probe the cavities with the grounded test light. The one that lights is the power to the safety switch. Run a jumper between it and the wire opposite it. If it was a bad switch it will now start.


#12

I have on occasion run a jumper wire direct from the battery to the “start” terminal on the starter when debugging something like this. If it runs that way, you know there is something wrong w/the “start” signal.