Car Stalls and Shuts Off when Coming to a Stop


#1

My 1992 Buick Century frequently shuts down when coming to a stop or slowing down to make a sharp corner. I’m always able to restart it. I thought it was a torque converter lockup problem, but my transmission specialist said the transmission is okay. Last month, after the car died completely, I had the crankshaft sensor and harmonic balancer replaced by Firestone. Could it be the same parts that malfunctioned? Or, could it be another issue? Any ideas would be appreciated.


#2

My first suspicion would be the IAC (idle air control). It’s mounted on the throttle body.


#3

To me, repeatedly stalling only at a stop is not a symptom of a failing crankshaft position sensor.


#4

Iac


#5

If it only happens when braking I would be looking at brake booster and vacuum lines, (if applicable)


#6

Since it happens only when I slow down to stop or negotiate a sharp turn, could it be that one one the brake light wires is short-circuit to another wire causing a glitch in the electronic control system?


#7

That’s possible, but wouldn’t be my first guess. hmmm … I’d be more inclined to think it was a problem with the ignition switch or maybe the battery is shifting and briefly shorting something out. Try driving the car with just a single key in the ignition, no key ring or anything else hanging from it. If that fixes the problem, it’s most likely a failing ignition switch.


#8

I had the gas filter replaced on Jan 25. The old filter was clogged. I had trouble blowing air through it. The car ran fine for 2 weeks. Now, I had the same problem. Could a problem in the gas tank cause recurring gas filter clogs?


#9

Does The “Check Engine” Message appear? It’s Possible For A DIYer To Easily Check For DTCs (Diagnostic Fault Codes) On Most Of These Earlier OBD1 Cars.

I had the same symptoms, as you describe, on a Dodge Aries, once. It turned out to be a MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor. It would get moisture in it during cold weather. A little checking discovered a bulletin and I had to buy a new MAP that came in a kit to relocate the MAP to a higher position. The MAP sensor solved the problem.

I’m not saying to replace the MAP, but I’d try for a diagnosis code. Where I live I could go to a you-pull-it salvage yard and get a used MAP to try for just a couple bucks.
CSA


#10

“My Two Cents” previously mentioned the Idle Air Control valve. Since both the IAC and MAF are both located at the air intake assembly, could old-fashioned gumout carburator cleaner help? Or, will that cause more problems?


#11

@jmcarc
Sorry, I had to edit my previous post. I had a “senior moment” and kept referring to a MAF (mass air flow) sensor when I meant to say MAP sensor.
CSA


#12

Since both the IAC and MAF are both located at the air intake assembly, could
old-fashioned gumout carburator cleaner help?

Traditional Gumout carburetor cleaner is too strong for the MAF sensors. Be sure to buy the kind meant for cleaning MAF sensors. Several brands, including Gumout, are available.


#13
I had the gas filter replaced on Jan 25. The old filter was clogged. I had trouble blowing air through it. The car ran fine for 2 weeks. Now, I had the same problem. Could a problem in the gas tank cause recurring gas filter clogs?

Yes that’s something definitely worth considering. Sometimes teenagers will pour dirt into the neighbor’s fuel tank as a prank for example. Continuing fuel filter clogs would be the result.