My 2015 Honda CR-V car started jerking on a slight incline, so I parked it. I later drove it carefully about 8 miles home. The warning lights stayed on, and an OBD scan showed code P0087. Also, my car has been having an oil leak for a long time… I think it’s from the cover gasket, which I will replace this weekend. I’ll also replace the spark plugs.
From what I’ve read, the problem may be the in-tank fuel pump or the high-pressure fuel pump (HPFP). Does that sound reasonable, and what should I test before replacing either one?
I’ve done several car repairs before, so I’m comfortable following detailed instructions. Any advice would be appreciated.
There’s two fuel pumps involved. It’s far more likely to be the high pressure pump as this sees the most stress. That’s located at the top of the engine and fairly easy to access. Care still needs to be taken to relieve pressure before starting any work.
Is motor DI?
Does this motor suffer from carbon fouling on intake valves?
Should you pull intake and inspect intake valves?
Same earth dreams di engine as accord. Crv used it 2015-2019, believe it was only on the base lx for 2018-19.
Dad’s 2019 1.5t crv had the in tank.pumo replaced under a recall that wouldn’t apply to a 2015, dealer wanted it brought in with less than half a tank, would have been great if he knew that when booking the service.
This has been very helpful information so that I can refer to the Honda Accord 2015 when searching for solutions. Thank you!
Is doing TDC absolutely necessary? I’ve seen quite a few videos for HPFP being replaced on Honda accord 2015 and CRVs and few talk about setting the piston #1 to TDC (Top Dead Center)? Is this extremely crucial or would be it relatively ok skipping this step? Thank you.
Same answer as your other thread…
If I am not mistaken, the HPFP plunger rides on a cam lobe (pump cam), meaning it is under spring pressure (see pic below) anytime it is off base circle, so if not at TDC (I assume compression stroke, but might not matter in this case) it can/will (pop up) jump while under that spring pressure and could at the very least make reinstalling it very hard by having to overcome said spring pressure, or worst case pull part of the remaining threads in the cylinder head…
If you have never done one of these and are unfamiliar with the amount of pressure that the HPFP plunger is under, then it is advised to proceed with caution…
If I am not mistaken, the HPFP plunger rides on a cam lobe (the pump cam), meaning it is under spring pressure anytime the cam is off the base circle. Honda’s procedure has you set #1 piston at TDC and then rotate the crankshaft 105° counterclockwise to put the pump cam in the proper position before removing the HPFP…
If the cam is in the wrong position, the plunger can be under significant spring pressure… At the very least, that can make removing/reinstalling the pump difficult because you have to overcome that spring pressure… In the worst case, forcing the pump into position could put unnecessary stress on the pump, bolts, or threads in the cylinder head…
If you’ve never done one of these and aren’t familiar with how much pressure the HPFP plunger can be under, I’d definitely recommend following the factory procedure rather than skipping the TDC/105° step… It’s a simple precaution that can prevent an expensive mistake…
Your vehicle, your money, your decision…