Hey I have an 07 Murano and lately it’s been shaking/ studdering especially when it goes into last gear. Sometimes it doesn’t even go into last gear and hits around 3000rpm then when I back off the gas around 100km you can hear it gear up, rpm drops to around 1500 and starts shaking. If I let off the pedal completely the shaking goes away. Over 2000rpm its fine also…What can be causing this? Had it ran for codes too and nothing came up. Also all of the lights flicker constantly. Don’t really notice it unless you look closely.
Lock-Up Torque Converter problem? Electronically controlled transmission?
I think I’d get the electrical / charging system checked out first. Funky voltage could cause various problems with electronically controlled components.
Then I’d take it from there.
If you’re familiar with safe procedures working with car batteries then disconnect, clean, and reconnect the vehicle’s battery cables and terminals. Or, have somebody else do it.
Faulty battery connections are the cheapest, easiest things to check.
Hey, for sure this car is a conventional automatic, eh?
When I searched this vehicle I found reference to shuddering and the CVT transmission.
Oh, and this vehicle had the voluntary recall for the air intake system, right?
Thanks for replying to my message! I have removed the battery as there was some corrosion on the terminals and post and thoroughly cleaned them, but didn’t have any luck with that. I also used a voltage meter and was getting a 12.5 from the battery/ car not started. Started car/ no load and was getting 14.05… turned on everything I could but the ac and it stayed around 14. Turned on the ac and it dropped to 12.95 and kept going from that to about 14ish.
I also read about issues with the cvt tranny and was wondering if it could be it. Also I wasn’t aware of the air intake recall? I haven’t had the car for long and haven’t registered it to receive recall updates.
It wasn’t actually a recall. I call it a service campaign, a voluntary recall done by the manufacturer. You’d probably have to contact a dealer to see if your specific vehicle was involved, if It was done, if it is/was eligible, and if the campaign has closed, etcetera.
Oh ok I will do that thanks. As for the cvt tranny, could there be a good chance at it being the issue? And could a tranny somehow cause all the lights to be flickering or would that be an entirely different issue? Lol
If the car’s engine is not running, the most you can get from a good battery is 12.6 volts. There is something wrong with your voltmeter, or your method.
Did you check the other ends of the battery cables for corrosion? The flickering indicates an electrical problem, and that should be the first thing to troubleshoor.
Haha 12.5 sorry… and no I didn’t ever think to look at the other ends of the cables. I’ll take a look and see what I come up with. Thank ya sir!
If it’s not the battery cables, odds are it’s some other loose wire or bad connector somewhere. If all the lights and dash indicators all flicker somewhere, it’s a major conductor, ie, major current path. I’d next check the wiring to the fuse box(s) and the ground connections. If you can get a trouble light to flicker, you can move it around to trace the problem. Or wiggle wires to see if you can induce the flicker.
Alternator problems can cause ripples in the electrical system voltage and one symptoms is various lights wills flicker. Ask your shop to check the AC ripple from the alternator. If it is over spec, replace the alternator. You can’t diagnose transmission problems in newish vehicles when the electrical system isn’t working correctly. The shake/studder could in fact be caused by the electrical system and have nothing wrong with the transmission.
So I took it to my local Nissan dealer and they mentioned my abs light was on which I knew because a backyard mechanic installed a new wheel hub for me and since then the lights been on. They think the shaking is because the hub was installed wrong. That a possibility?
Oh my. Yes, that could indeed be the problem. The ABS system contains a small computer that monitors the rotational speed of each of the four wheels. The stability system is often involved with this too. If the wheels are not all turning at the same approx. speed, that makes the ABS system think one of them is skidding or locked up. It will apply brakes to the other wheels to try to solve that problem, and that can cause a shuddering effect.
The rotational speed sensor measures the speed of little nubs on the hub as they rotate past the sensor. For it to work accurately the nubs and sensor must be correctly spaced. There isn’t much toleranace for error in that spacing. And of course the sensor has to be plugged in. You might can look under the car to check for a sensor near the wheel that isn’t plugged in.
Thanks for the replies! They also found out the wheel sensor was fried. They showed me and it was burnt and melted. So they believe a new sensor will fix all my problems. So let’s hope!
First find out why the first one melted !
i guess it was damaged when the hub was installed
So $1000 later and the shuddering/ light flickering problem they said was caused from the wheel sensor is still happening. That sucked lol