If you don’t have the capability to safely jack the front end enough to gain access to the starter motor and do a trickle charge enough to get the power door locks to work, it appears the only available solution is to have it towed to a shop, where they’ll easily be able to do that procedure. Sometimes your car insurance will pay for part or even the total expense of an emergency tow, so phone your agent and ask if your policy includes that service. I doubt there’ll be much expense to get the doors unlocked once you get the car to the shop. The advice above to get the door locks repaired so they will open with a key is something to consider while your car is at the shop anyway. Best of luck there OP.
I think leaving it unlocked is probably the way to go - I was joking about leaving it open. It is stored in a garage so rodents are the only real risk, and probably minimal given the number of free range stray cats in the area. My insurance does not have any roadside assistance and while I am certainly redneck enough to try some of the suggestions, I am about 20 years past limber or skinny enough to get under this car to start pulling on cables with pliers - I did jack it up and look, but I can’t find a trunk release - I strongly suspect it is above the gas tank - which is about where the keyhole behind the seat for the trunk release is…I’m going to tap a few local resources and see if I can beg someone to take pity on me. All good suggestions! Thanks!
I usually go run it for a few minutes every couple of weeks, but I was sick and couldn’t get there for about six weeks, and it was dead by then. Next year I think I’ll just take it out. I was joking about leaving it open, but I might leave it unlocked. It is stored in a safe location.
Have you tried wd-40 in the keyhole? The pins could be stuck.
The key turns fine, it just doesn’t do anything.
THANK YOU ALL!!! The mechanic across the street took pity on me and jacked her up and put a bit of juice to the starter, and I was able to use the remote to open the door!!! She charged right up and it running like a top!!!
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That is good , but don’t forget to find out why you could not open the door with the key.
Good point! Thanks!
Glad you got it open. One (hopefully last) comment. A totally drained battery looses capacity, you might want to get it replaced and add a battery tender/maintainer to keep it charged during next years sinter storage.
Thanks - I thought I might have to replace it, but oddly enough I guess it wasn’t totally dead, the clock reset but not the preset radio stations. If it starts tomorrow, I’m going to just see how it goes. Thanks again!
Glad to hear it, Teresa. You are a persistent lady and that’s a good thing. Please don’t be a stranger here.
Thank you! If I ever have another problem, I know where to ask! Everyone here was so nice and helpful, offering all kinds of suggestions. FYI - I’m a fan of old MoPar too - no one seems to believe me when I tell them my first car had a 360 CID 5.9l engine and a snakeskin vinyl top with a hand crank sunroof. I miss my 1974 Duster! It would positively be a muscle car by today’s standards! Heck, it even had AC!!!
Mine was Candy Apple red…though they might have called it maroon…but that’s her!!! I suppose it’s not what people think of when they think of a car that spurred a lifetime of the need for performance, but it sure has a special place in my heart! Of course, mine had more miles than that in 1982, but it was a great car!
The first new car i bought was a 68 Dodge dart GTS with a 383. Now that I’m a grumpy old man, I prefer comfort over speed.
And just how old is that battery . . . ?
If it’s 4 or 5 years old, be proactive and replace it now
If you don’t know how old it is, it’s due for replacement
The goal is to prevent this situation from re-occurring . . . not getting maximum usage from your battery
You might also want to seriously consider a parasitic draw test and charging system test
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A discharged battery can usually be recharged, I am not one of those who replaces batteries if they have been discharged, that is unnecessary.
I have many customers with seasonal cars who bring them in after a period of storage with a dead battery. The battery is recharged and tested, it usually passes the performance test. We can’t replace a battery under warranty that does not fail the test.
BTW I have a 1973 Duster 340;
Not really. 1974 Dodge 360 cu.in. (5.9L) 255 hp +/-, 2013 Toyota Camry 3.5L (214 cu.in) 265 hp+/-. Roughly 35% more displacement and still only about as much power as an econobox grocery getter.
did the discussion verify if the door lock is mechanical that works with a key or is a solenoid that requires power? yes i know the OP says the key turns and we know the battery is dead. or was dead.
i was idling my car in gear on jackstands recently and closed the door and the car locks the doors when you shift into gear. but i had a 2nd set of keys on the workbench as i was aware of the issue. but, my key does mechanically open the door lock as well
Just make sure to have the battery tested after having it charged, then you’ll know for sure.
I had a '72 Duster, not quite a muscle car: 198 slant six. But it ran great through college (multiple long trips, towed a U-Haul) and into my first job. Sold it to a friend, he drove it until a car hit it and totaled it.