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Calling all EVAP & HONDA gurus!

I am at my wits end and need advice pronto. Here is my issue>

VEHICLE:
2006 Honda Element 2.4 engine 113k miles

ISSUE: Evap p2422 evap vent valve stuck shut

PARTS REPLACED: evap vent valve (twice). Charcoal canister, pressure sensor on canister and separator all used parts off a working vehicle.

Here’s the thing: The p2422 code goes away when I replace the original charcoal canister. Code comes back as soon as I put the original back on it, even with different evap vent valves. The same code illuminates (p2422). Now, here is the weird part: Code goes away when I replace the evap canister…BUT…there is massive amounts of air being puffed out of the vent when vehicle is running, (almost sounds like a misfire) even when switching evap vent valves. It does the same thing but no code is being set, even after driving over 2k miles. There is no sounds of air puffs with the original charcoal canister (just the p2422 code)

other sypmtoms: car is hard to put gas in with the original evap canister, but not with the replacement. Car, has occasionally stalled after start-up. Car has occasionally ran rough at first idle (with original canister and with replacement canister.) car can stall when removing gas lid with car running.

A few things to note and personal observations: When I remove the vent hose to separator assembly the air puffs stop. ( replacement canister). Original evap charcoal canister seems to be bad, but what would cause the air puffs from the vent valve to the separator to occur on the replacement canister? There is no holes or clogs, I have checked and rechecked the entire thing other then hoses ran to the engine bay evap purge solenoid. The air puffs is coming directly from the vent tube box thing.

It’s a fairly simple design: system consists of: Fuel tank vapor control valve on top of tank, fuel tank pressure sensor on the canister, evap shut valve on canister, charcoal evap canister, evap canister purge valve under hood and the separator.

Maintenance: Oem ngk spark plugs, valve adjustment, air filter. All fluids changed Break pads, rotors and calipers. (All within 1,000 miles)

I’ve had it to two different shops (1 ase certified, 1 ase certified master mechanic.), one “cleaned” the evap vent shut valve for $25 and one shop replaced it for $200. I spent $40 on the replacement canister, myself…so I’m closing in on being $300 in to this repair with no end insight or direction.

Parts I have not replaced: Purge solenoid under hood, fuel tank vapor vent valve. I have not tried replacing any of the previous mentioned parts with new parts (vent valve, canister)