Good ideas above, especially about measuring the resistance of the wheel speed sensor at the various connectors between it and the computer. If you have a scan tool that has the required wheel speed sensor test function you can drive the car around and measure what each sensor is saying the wheel speed is for each wheel.
If you don’t have that scan tool, measuring the resistance is where I’d start. Usually in the range of 2,000 ohms I think. If you measure 2,000 ohms right at the sensor (with the sensor disconnected), then upon re-connecting the sensor you measure, 2 ohms or one million ohms at the next connector in the chain, there’s obviously a problem in the wiring between that point and the sensor. Disconnect the battery first before doing resistance tests.
There’s different configurations for those sensors, some are just a simple coil of wire, the passive type. Others have an electronics package inside the sensor, the active type. Not sure how it works on a Nox, which is what I presume you are testing. If you have a lab o’scope you could trace the signal from the sensor to the computer as you hand-spin the tire. That’s how I’d do it. Without a scope you could approximate this test just using a DVM in AC voltage mode. You should see something in the neighborhood of one volt AC when the wheel is spinning; if you have the simple coil of wire type, the AC voltage will be higher the faster it spins. Comparing known to be working sensors with the one is question is helpful too.