sorry, the response should have been for GeorgeSanJose. woof woof
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This cars A/C system only holds 14 ounces of refrigerant, 2 ounces under or overcharge can cause major performance problems. Overcharged by just 2 ounces the system will normal in 85F heat but the pressures will rise to the cut off point during the afternoon heat of 110F.
Adding oil is sometime done if a leak with noticeable oil loss is spotted. If there has been no oil loss each ounce of oil will displace an ounce of refrigerant, the system doesnāt have space for extra oil.
With charge amounts on modern vehicle being so critical I always take the time to reclaim the refrigerant and begin with a measured charge amount.
The thought of adding several cans of refrigerant (with additives) to a car like this if frightening.
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Hereās an update. My belt snapped because the AC compressor is seizing up. I got my hand on it and spun it. It jiggles and eventually sticks. Rather than buy another compressor or a pully bypass, Iām gonna bypass it with a shorter belt. I ran a string and its around 38 inches. I donāt think thereās a tensioner in the path or an adjustable generator, so Iāll get one a bit shorter and muscle it on. Thereās a bolt that slightly interferes, but I should be able to get around that with less ribs. 4-5 instead of 6. Being that I canāt seem to find any info regarding this on the web, Iāll post my results.
I found this http://club4g.org/board/maintenance/30667-how-gt-ac-compressor-bypass-belt.html#/topics/30667?_k=nnh10h
Iām guessing this guys eclipse is a 2006 or newer because itās in the 4G forum. Mine is a 3G (2000 - 2006) I think. Hope they are the same or very similar.
Is anyone familiar with the idler pully or tension adjuster? Am considering going with the 40 inch belt, but I have no idea how to adjust it or if it can be adjusted.
There is a tensioner, or it would be impossible to replace the belt.
If your routing is like the one posted by @kurtwm2010ā¦the tensioner is the pulley in the middle of his diagram.
By the way, that diagram isd wrong. The belt (marked in red) at the top of his diagram should not go straight from the crankshaft pulley at the top to the Generator. At the top the belt would dip down and slip under the tensioner between the crank and gen pulleys.
Yosemite
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The 38 inch belt was too small, the 40 inch was too big. I ended up using a 39 inch belt with 5 ribs so it doesnāt slightly rub the bolt along its path. (Duralast 390K5) was like $9. Any 39 inch 5 rib belt should be fine. A 6 rib would probably be ok too, but the outer edge would have made the slightest contact. 4-6 rib would likely be ok, but I think 5 rib is the best bet because it clears the bolt. I put the tensionor all the way in because the belt was still a little small. I put the belt on the alternator pully first, then got half on the underside of the crank pully. Turned the key just enough to get the belt fully on the crank. Then I adjusted the tensioner to just touch the belt, because it was almost as tight as it needs to be. Started it up, everything seems to be great. all you guys have been a great help, thanks a lot. I appreciate yāall taking the time. Hope this helps someone else 
Thanks fo I the 39 inch belt clue it worked perfectly but the only one my auto parts store had was a 4 rib. I think I need the 5 or 6 rib because when I use the heater and headlights at the same time the belt squeals bloody murder. And the tensioner is maxed. So use a 5 or 6 rib