That is normal for Yoshi .
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What takes 5 minutes for most, takes days for Yoshi. He needs a new hobby he is more suited too. Maybe collecting belly button lint.
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See that’s my issue, there is no crud on the bleeder screw to wipe off, It’s nice and clean. It’s just poorly manufactured were it starts out at somewhere between 9.9 mm and 10.0 mm, and then as you go down it slowly gets wider up to 10.2 mm it seems. Making it only possible to get a 10 mm wrench on a small portion of external hex, not enough of a bite to apply enough torque to rotate it to loosen it. If the 13/32 inch fails me I’ll just pliers. I’m afraid of tapping even harder then I already did to try and get on a 10 mm wrench.
If anything comes of this, I got a new size wrench I didn’t have already, and learned more about W and BA sizes.
Buy a new bleeder screw, 99 cents at Advance auto parts and have it on hand when you take the old one out with vise grips. Jut like weekend warrior suggested.
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Which once again delays the project by over thinking things, getting unnecessary tools, spending unnecessary money and while gaining some knowledge, it’s mostly useless trivia that will never be used repairing anything. You started this bleeder debacle 3 days ago, and should have been done in less than 30 minutes with tools you already had on hand. Please, for the love of all that is good, just vice grip the damn thing out, replace it, with a new one and move on. Put us all out of your misery and tomfoolery.
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In the ops defense or defence depending on where you are, memory seems to serve me that the op is not on the North American continent and may not have access to mechanics and parts stores. I’m not going to look it up but seems to me there isn’t an az around the corner like I have.
Still take a dang vice grip and order a new set.
You keep talking about using a wrench. Have you tried tapping on a high-quality 6-point 10mm socket, as some have mentioned?
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I don’t expect OP’s objective is to perform a repair task to a time schedule. OP is trying to learn about the variables involved with diy auto repair. OP may eventually take away my prize awarded here some years ago for taking the longest time on record to rebuild a Ford carburetor … lol …
Fasteners are built by humans so have to expect them to be less than perfect. Out of spec fasteners b/c of the thread-pitches or other dimensions not that uncommon.
They’re made by machines.
Tester
well, he is half right. humans built the machines that make the part. 
Try as we might, When you are doing millions of little parts, we always had some that made it past the quality control machines. Highly unlikely here though so again take a vice grip to it and order a new set.
Discussion reminds me of my 9-th grade shop class, metal-working. I’m definitely not gifted in this area. But I tried. Other students were making filing cabinets and the like, I made a dust pan and two cookie sheets … lol … still using dust-pan, so not complete waste of time.
One day teacher pops a quiz. One of the questions is “What tool do you use a mark a line on a piece of sheet metal”? I said to use a straight-edge. Wrong. Correct answer was to use an awl … lol … I asked teacher why straight edge was incorrect. Seemed like I should get at least partial credit. “No Credit at all!”. Explanation was that no matter how long a straight-edge was placed on sheet metal, no line would ever appear.
Added some more knowledge to the list that seems to be very very rare. A conversion table cannot be found for 5/32 W to AF. It seems to be a size that is not manufactured anymore. I asked someone who has a 5/32 W and they said it’s about 9.75 mm. There still around though and appear to be very rare though. Perhaps some W and BA wrenches would be good to have on hand for rusted fasteners on like exhaust systems that slightly decrease in diameter from all the rust, but I’d probably get other tools before I got those. So doesn’t look like I’m going to get anything closer unless there are 25/64 inch wrenches, which I can’t find any of.
1/8 W = 8.6 mm
BA1 = 9.275 mm
3/8 inch ~ 9.53 mm
5/32 W ~ 9.75 mm
13/32 inch ~ 10.32 mm
BA0 = 10.5 mm
7/16 inch ~ 11.11 mm
3/16 W = 11.3 mm
Not exactly sure, but if my 13/32 inch wrench doesn’t work and I have to resort to pliers, when I unfasten the bleeder screw from the caliper, will the fluid come flowing out at a high rate, would I be able to install the new one easily? Or should I get some brake hose clamps to clamp onto the hose so I don’t make a giant mess or create damage to the brake line? Or would clamping down on the brake hose not be required?
I had the stuck bleed screw once, and vice-grips didn’t work. Crushed the bleed screw (b/c it is hollow), but still didn’t budge. Plus once crushed, made the removal job much more difficult. Suggest to first try to remove it using an adjustable wrench or the like, along with thread penetrant.
Once the bleed screw is removed fluid won’t come out at a high rate. But it will come out, that’s how the gravity bleeding method is done. Rate is determined by how fast air comes in at the top at the master cylinder. If you press the brake pedal slightly (using stick or something) , that will completely close off the airflow into the master cylinder. May make a bit of a mess, but plenty of time to install new bleed screw.
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You grabbed it around the external hex and still crushed it?
Yes. within the limits of the vice grip’s width of course.
As second to last resort, you can always remove the caliper and carefully drill the bleed screw out on the work bench.Last resort, buy a new caliper. That’s the good thing with car repair, a lot of options available.
Not any closer to actually accomplishing this task just like all of your other threads .
Humans also repair, calibrate, and provide the machine the (hopefully) correct raw materials, along with monitoring the entire process.
If you were using a 10 mm 6 point socket, there is nothing to be afraid of.
Just do it.
Besides do you really think a 10.32 wrench is not going to slip and make it worse?
Because with this method, you are pinching a hollow tube from opposing sides. The preferred method has already been suggested and that is to tap a six point socket over the bleeder. A socket distributes the force equally around the entire circumference.
In the future, if you find you must use a pliers type tool, then put an appropriately sized rod into the bleeder before applying pressure. This fills the void and prevents it from collapsing under pressure. The “nail” end of a pop rivet serves this purpose quite well.
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