Brake bleeding

I see no problem with my brake bleeding procedure, and I can do it without a helper, and I don’t use fancy vacuum assist. But it seems too good to be true, since everybody always talks about needing a helper.

I break loose the bleed screw and attach a plastic tube, which I route a few inches up, then back down to a collection bottle. Then I just pump the brake lots and lots, and add fluid to the master cylinder, and pump a bunch more, etc., until the fluid exiting the bleed screw is clean and bubble-free. Then without pressure on the brake pedal, I casually tighten the bleed screw. If the piston spring causes negative pressure in the brake caliper, the bleed screw sucks back in the fluid in the plastic tube, and not air. Big deal.

This procedure is cheap and easy, and I never get spongy brakes. Why the fuss about a pedal pressing helper or a vacuum rig??

Because then you have someone to talk to while bleeding the brakes…:slight_smile:

The only problem is that when the pedal comes back up it will draw in whatever is in the tube, either air or fluid. I suppose the loop allows it to draw back fluid that was expelled in the tube instead of air. I’m not sure how you would ever see if the air bubbles are out of it though unless you use a mirror. Also I think some cars require pressure bleeding. I just might try it though next time. My wife really gets impatient listening to “push down, let up, push down, let up. . .”

Some people are set in their habits and mostly it’s no harm, no foul. I have used a bleeder ball in the past and those are great but if it was being used I never let that stop me. For years I have gravity bleed and never have problems, never.

1.suck old fluid out of resv. with a turkey baster type of bulb. Cal Van tools offers a battery filler that is perfect. fill with new fluid.
2. remove 1 bleeder screw and clean it out with a pin vise while fluid starts to come out of the screw hole. this does not suck air into the lines. install the screw but do not tighten, let it bleed until clean fluid runs out.
3. always check to make sure the resv does not run dry.
4. repeat for the other screws.

this can make a mess unless you put containers underneath. it is also somewhat slow but clean your work area or otherwise be productive while the vehicle bleeds itself. this is a great way to do it if a helper is n/a.

I use a clear tube. It makes it very easy to see bubbles. This method works or doesn’t work depending on what kind of seal is in the brake bleeder screw. (Some have a good air tight seal when open, some don’t.)

What you’re doing is fine for replacing old fluid with new.
Do that every 2-3 years and you won’t have to do anything else to the hydraulics for a long, long time.