Tester
2 Likes
If we ignore him and quit feeding him, maybe, just maybe he’ll go away.
3 Likes
What’s the typical clearance between the AF diameter of a nut and it’s respective socket?
Meaning the diameter of the head of a bolt can’t be exactly 10 mm because then a wrench with a 10 mm opening won’t be able to be used on such a bolt. If they are both exactly the same size, then the tool cannot be used to unfasten the fastener.
This is why I thought a 10.32 mm (13/32 inch) wrench would be ideal on a nut that is 10.2 mm at the bottom of the nut. I thought for example that the diameter of a nut that uses a 10 mm wrench was 9.9 mm in actuality because of the required clearance. I thought the difference of 0.12 mm wouldn’t be a big deal, but I don’t know if clearances are typically smaller than 0.12 mm? I can’t seem to find what the typical clearances are. But I would agree that if the clearances are typically like 0.05 mm then a 10.32 mm would be to big and I’m better off just tapping on a 10 mm 6 point wrench.
Perhaps a harbor freight wrench actually has a use here lol. I think harbor freight typically have the worse tolerances, so a 10 mm harbor freight wrench might actually have the largest clearance between the fastener and the wrench. Tapping on a 6 point 10 mm wrench from harbor freight might be the solution. I’ll probably give this a try.
Why aren’t you using a 10mm socket? Why are you overthinking this?
It’s a 2020, the bleed screw won’t be that stuck. Use a 3/8 drive, 10mm socket with an extension, hammer it on, it will NOT damage the bleeder at all, then loosen it with a flex handle (preferred) or ratchet. Yes fluid will leak out but as long as you don’t let the MC go dry, it wont hurt anything. Air can’t get in as long as fluid is coming out. Remove the MC cap before you start this and make sure the MC is full.
Mark the current level on the MC so that when you get done, return the level to that mark. Do not fill to the full line when done. That way when the pads are worn down, the fluid will be at the min line and you will get a “Brake” warning light on the dash.
BTW: You NEVER tap a wrench onto a bleeder screw because you can damage to top. Only tap a socket on, deep well is the best but most 3/8 drive 10mm socket will have clearance. If not sure, the don’t use the extension, just the socket if you have the room.
2 Likes
Maybe the tenth time for that suggestion is the charm…
1 Like
Too busy thinking about obsolete wrench sizes.
Needs serious and competent psychological counseling. I really want to say something else, but I won’t at this time.
4 Likes
Whitworth.
Nice review, thanks.
- A dealership can tell you the bleeder sizes - our older model Civic uses 10mm at the calipers.
- Sometimes bleeders are too hard to break loose with an open ended wrench, much less an adjustable, without rounding them. Mine sometimes have been too stuck for tubing nut wrenches.
- Try loosening them with a sufficiently deep 6 point socket, most likely you’ll need more than standard depth. Follow up with the bleeding using anything convenient, I like to use a closed ended box wrench for this part (after attaching drain tubing) as they tend to stay in place.
- If there’s anything wrong with it - distortion, corrosion - replace the bleeder with a new one of good quality.
- I avoid using liquids or anti-seize product not specifically made for brake maintenance on the bleeders (and I’m not aware of any) to avoid the risk of contaminating the brake fluid and ruining seals. Sometimes prior to reassembly I’ll burnish a bit of solid lubricant like graphite, moly disulphide or tungsten disulphide into surfaces using a cotton swab, but take care not to get any fibers or particulate into the system.
1 Like
By the way, you never lube a caliper piston except with brake fluid when you are rebuilding it. I have not seen caliper rebuilding kits in year, probably because it is cheaper to buy a rebuilt caliper than pay a shops hourly rate to rebuild it.
1 Like
Wheel cylinder rebuild kits are commonly available for my truck’s drum brakes, but not for the master cylinder. I’ve always wondered why the difference? If issue is legal liability if something goes wrong, seems like something could go wrong with a wheel cylinder rebuild too. I used to successfully routinely rebuild my brake master cylinders until kits no longer available at the parts store.
I don’t remember doing a master cylinder although I could have on the 68 dart. I did do wheel cylinders though for the ones that the bleeder did not twist if. I think the kits were about $2 at champion auto, plus you had to buy the reamer for a couple bucks. Times were tough.
I don’t recall using a reamer. Do you mean the cylinder hone gadget to smooth the cylinder walls, removes burrs etc?
Yeah the hone. Shaft for the drill with emery paper on it. Must be in my tool box somewhere. Note to self: clean out tool box.
I never used a reamer, I had a wheel cylinder hone. Rebuilding things has becom big business with companied buying cores from all over and doing rebuilds on a large scale at a price that can’t be matched by local shops and the DIY rebuild market is not large enough to interest anyone to make kits except in the collector car world.
I think Bing meant hone when he said reamer. The “rebuild” kits were pretty simple, run the hone through a few times, install the new parts, bleed the system. All done with the brake cylinders on the car.
1 Like
Yes, that’s right. Made rebuilding drum brake wheel cylinders pretty easy. Rebuilding brake MC not as simple, had to be done on the work-bench.