So I was driving down the road and all of a sudden I heard a pop and a lot of thinking around and inside the engine Bay. I slowed my truck down and it eventually just cut off. There were several codes that came up ranging from it being
P 061A
P06DA
P22282
P0521
I looked underneath and saw right above the oil panthers a hole in the side of the block where there’s oil that’s spattered all over the place. When I try to turn the car over it sounded like a bunch of rattling inside. I tried this once in that there was something wrong. Mind you I did this before I looked underneath and saw the hole. I’m assuming the block is fried. All these codes have to do with the internal control torque performance model and the engine and manifold oil pressure system. Also the oil engine control circuit which was stuck off. But I didn’t get any of these codes or alerts on my vehicle when I did the OBD2 scan. It just seemed to come out of nowhere. The only codes I kept getting were my catalytic converter. I’m assuming it’s a blown rod. Maybe even something with the oil pump possibly. I would assume anything with a hole blown through the side wall of the engine would result in catastrophic failure so is it salvageable or should I get a new engine?
Also there are no fault codes that are saying anything related to catastrophic failure for the engine and I still have coolant at the normal level and oil at normal level. And this is the next day so I’m wondering maybe even a head gasket blown??
Hey everyone, thanks for chiming in! So i took off the oil pan and looked inside. I think im pretty lucky lol. Only one of the rods broke. So far, things dont look to bad but i need to further inspect. The hole is very small, about the size of the end of a thumb tack; the part you hold.
My truck is a 2020 f150 2.7 w/ 100k miles. I keep my truck in pristine condition all changes very frequently every 3500 miles 4000 miles… The date on all fluids I keep a weekly maintenance log everything I’m pretty meticulous about taking care of it as there’s a lot of modifications done to it. It seems like just the lower block I may have to replace but everything doesn’t look that bad I’ll send a picture in today or tomorrow. I think this might be salvageable. But when the pictures get posted you guys tell me what you think. I feel like if the pressure switch hadn’t gone out then everything might be fine. Oddly enough there’s no codes for any catastrophic damage or anything like that coming up in the OBD scan. It’s just those codes. I did give a jump start to someone and I’m thinking that may have killed part of the battery because when I went to test the battery it only read 8.4 volts. I feel like it may have done something to the battery or alternator or some of the electrical so I’m running through all the fuses first and then I’m gonna go and see directly what the codes imply and try either replacing it or seeing if it still functions at all.
So you think the whole engine is trash? Why not just replace the lower end of the engine? I’ve got an engine hoist. It’s only got a 100000 miles on the engine. The hole is small and can be patched.
Whatever caused that rod to break was likely the result of some other problem, like an oil starvation issue causing bearings to bind. Many other bearings could be damaged. Unless you know the actual cause, a good first guess (which is all I can do) is that you’ll be much better off with a replacement long block.
A problem like this is very rare these days, hardly ever hear of a rod letting go on a stock modern engine.
A connecting rod putting a hole of any size in the side of a block is considered a catastrophic failure, and yes you are lucky, worst case it could have dumped oil under your tires and caused a wreck…
At the very least it will require a new short block, but a new long block would be better, cause if one rod bearing was starved from oil, who’s to say that other unforeseen damage has not occurred in the upper end of the engine…
The failure has blown crap throughout the inside of the engine. A teardown will likely show damaged bearing journals at the least. Problems not identifiable by visual inspection might include a bent crank, warped block, or damaged cylinder walls.
Replace it with a used engine or a new long block assembly from Ford. If you insist on keeping these $30K mods, add in another $3000 to replace the factory connecting rods and pistons with stronger aftermarket ones. And expect the next weak point to go BOOM sometime within another 100K miles!
Oil cooler
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