I bought the truck with 11 miles on it. All these mods were done within 2 yrs of having it.
Well Iāll be dipped! I am already correct! Better rods and pistons and it STILL blew a rod!
And NOwhere did you mention how MUCH boost you were running compared to stock.
Iāll say it againā¦ You wanna PLAY, ya gotta PAY!
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Lmao yea and thereās still a few things missing off the list. All I want to do is salvage what I van and transfer all of it to the new motor.
You need to monetize this. YouTube video. Get some viewers. Viewers love to offer advise.
And blow the new motor !
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Why would I blow a new motor by salvaging what I can? if the parts work the parts work and thereās thereās no internal damage to them they should be fine right? My parts arenāt cheap not China made. Iām not talking about salvaging internals in the engine Iām talking about salvage and everything else.
What new engine do you have in mind? Replacing it with the same engine may result in the same problem. Maybe you should consider a Ford crate engine already designed and built for the power you want. Maybe you can sell the parts if you canāt use them on the new engine.
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Exactly - what will you change to keep this from happening again? First on the list of causes for your blown engine - the tune.
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Because every part in this engine has sustained significant stress over 100K miles. Cumulative stress causes failures. You might spend $10K rebuilding what you have just to have it blow up in 10K miles when the next part reaches its stress limit. This is the engineering principle of strength of materials.
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OP, did you have a dyno tune of your modded engine? With all those add-ons that would be highly recommended.
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With all due respectā¦it makes no sense to spend the time/money to:
- Disassemble, diagnose, and ārecoverā known used internal engine parts.
- Install them on a known running used or even brand new engine.
- Try and figure out then whatās wrong with the used/new engine with the used āperformanceā parts you installed from a blown engine.
This is why folks need to think really carefully about spending tens of thousands of dollars on āmodificationsā. The vehicle could literally be wrecked and totaled (or engine blown) the next day, and that money is all gone.
But thatās just like, my opinion, manā¦
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+1
A couple of years ago, a woman posted about her modified Ford diesel truck whose engine self destructed. It was nearly new, and warranty coverage was deniedāas it should have been.
Holy cow. Yeah, I was thinking of that very same post. It ought to be āpinnedā to the top of the discussion board for reference.
Seems like I recall it was a new, or nearly new Ford diesel super duty still under factory warranty. Owner did a ātuneā on the engine. They were pulling a trailer of some sort on vacation, engine blew up, and the dealer denied warranty coverage due to the āmodā. I think the poster said a new engine on the new truck otherwise under warranty was like $10-15K.
Not exactly the kind of āupgradeā I suspect the owner was expecting with the ātuneā.
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And, that womanās modification was just the addition of an aftermarket performance chip!
IIRC, her last post on the subject said something along the lines ofā¦ I learned a hard lessonā¦ so at least she wised-up about the advisability of thinking that all aftermarket vendors can be trusted to sell products that are safe.
My way of saying this is that an engine runs best right before it blows up.
OP should start fresh with a complete engine assy thatās built better and stronger than the one that just gave birth.
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Thatās like swapping out the cake and saving the frosting.
You can do that but you might be better off replacing it with a used engine.
Iām as frugal as the next guy but thatās pennywise and pound foolish. By the time you strip this motor down the replace all the bearings, do the machine work etc, saving a punched block is not really a good economic move IMO.
Use the hoist to pull the junk engine, swap your accessory parts over to the donor long block and drop that back in place.
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I suggest getting a long block from Ford and leaving it original, including the thermostat.
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Is that how much it really costs for a set of custom pistons and connecting rods?
I have thought about such a thing in the past, to add valve-to-piston clearance, but I never asked about cost.
If he was working on a small-block Chevy, theyād be cheaperā¦ But he has a 2.7 V6 Ecoboost.
My best estimate as to prices. $1500 for the rods, $1200 for the pistons and $200 for rings and tool-steel piston pins. Labor extra!
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Oh no Iām not gonna do all that. Iām going to buy a small block and replace the heads, rods, crank etcā¦