Best new to me pickup truck?

General Discussion
1

As mentioned earlier, I am replacing one of my older trucks with a newer model. The original plan was to get a 2018 F150 with the 5.0 V8 Coyote. There are been some issues getting the title work completed as this was obtained via a tow/mechanics lien from out of state. During the titling process, a form expired and had to be re-submitted, delaying the process. I can wait until early-mid October for the original truck in question but the seller has several other trucks and more coming. These are all without the out of state title issues that are now available or will be soon.

I wanted to see what the best choice could be given more options. I think the Ford 5.0 is a good option but I have seen some reports about the 2018’s having oil consumption issues. This one does not but I guess that could change in the future. No matter what I plan to use a synthetic fully compatible with direct injection engines as this uses both technologies. Port style is used at low loads/speeds while DI comes into play at higher power levels. Certain additives in older oil formulations can lead to deposit formation in DI engines.

This truck also uses the 10 speed transmission. I have heard from many to get the 6 speed which 2017 appears to be the last year. For now all the Fords in question for me are the 2018 with the 10 speed. It looks like this is a concern but nothing to be overly worried about if the transmission is currently shifting ok. All these trucks come with a new battery if it is needed, newly changed oil, new transmission fluid and filter, and new fluids in the transfer case and differentials.

There is another 2018 with the 3.5L Ecoboost. I don’t think these are a bad engine but kinda want something that won’t require any major engine work for about 300,000 miles. I would like to get that out of one of these trucks if that is possible. I hear some say if you use synthetic oil and change it at 5,000-6,000 miles max, you will never have problems related to the turbos. Others tell me to expect at least one major overhaul or replacement of the turbos within my desired life of the truck. I know that the 3.5 Ecoboost has more usable power under the curve and more torque/towing capacity than the 5.0. That being said, the 5.0 is rated at 395hp. I don’t plan to be racing this thing or pulling anything insane. It is going to feel like a real workhorse compared to what I have been working with. For the reduced amount of complexity, the V8 only loses about 1mpg by EPA estimates. Any reason to avoid the turbos or should I join the modern world?

There is also a 2017 Toyota Tundra with the V8. I am not sure which V8 as of yet as I see there are two but both are highly regarded. As with most Toyotas, reports indicate stellar reliability no matter which V8 is used. I have never owned a foreign pickup (I know they are actually made here) but it seems there are enough of them in the rural Ozarks so that finding someone to service them or purchase parts is not really an issue these days. There are some reports of Toyota frames rusting badly but I don’t see any mention of that with this model year. Either way, I will make sure to get under and look around to be sure.

Then there are a few 2010-2015 Chevy and GMC options with the 5.3L. I understand that this is overall a good engine but that AFM/DFM modules and lifters can fail over time in some. I figure I need to keep the possible cost of repairing or deleting this needs to be factored in as it sounds like they all fail after a certain period of time. Most I talk to suggest deleting this feature when the time comes. Of course that involves replacing the AFM lifters with standard ones.

I told them I didn’t really want to deal with anything Dodge or Nissan although they had some of those as well.

Any opinions on this? I might just wait for the original truck at this point but wanted explore the other options as well. I have put money down on the truck and he understand my frustration so is more than happy to apply the funds to a different one.

Any opinions are appreciated. Thanks.

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For whatever it’s worth, Consumer Reports rates the reliability of late-model Chevy, Ford, Ram, and Toyota trucks essentially the same–“worse than average”.

3

I read something like this a few months back as well. They blame it on increasing complexity for the benefit of MPG and CAFE standards. That includes transmissions with many speeds (I know Ford and GM use a variation of the same basic 10 speed now), cylinder deactivation, and turbochargers.

A few people have indicated I might be better to get the 2015-2017 F150 if I could find one with the 6 speed transmission for this reason. I talked with several local mechanics who seem to share the same opinion that none are perfect by any means so I might just have to deal with it. Eventually I will have to buy these technologies as there will be no other choice. I do plan to keep my other low-tech models around until it isn’t worth messing with them anymore like I did with the last one.

I know Toyota seems to have a stellar reputation but even they have had some flops over time as they all have. The overall reviews I found on a 2017 Tundra seemed favorable. That isn’t to say this is my only option. My past luck with MOPAR as well as that of friends makes me pretty much want to avoid the Dodge/RAM brand altogether.

4

The most consistent problems with Chevy trucks seem to be in the fuel system, and in-car electronics. With Ford, their build quality seems to be consistently bad, as are their in-car electronics. With Ram, it seems to be mostly bad build quality.

The Tacoma is mostly average, so I’m not sure how they came up with “worse than average”. The Tundra’s problem areas appear to be build quality and brakes.

5

I think you’ll be able to find “issues” with any of these choices.

Personally, I’d go for whichever truck had the best (if any) maintenance history.

But if you’re going only by brand… I’d try the Toyota Tundra, myself.

6

My last Mustang had the 6 speed auto and 5.0 V8. It is a good transmission. Strong and it shifts pretty well.

My current Mustang has the 10 speed. Very wide range of ratios! It does not shift that smoothly and the truck may have that issue as well. There are reports of problems with the first year or 2 with the 10 speed. Getting a turbo V6 won’t help that, it uses the same trans. I would avoid a 2018. I would go with a 2017 to get a 6 speed or get a 2020 with the 10 speed. Either with the 5.0.

I’d avoid a used GM unless there is absolute proof that it has has all its oil changes early. The AFR system does not like sludge and the engine will fail if not very well maintained. It could fail even IF well maintained but it is less likely. The 2018 10 speed is generally OK.

A used Toyota would be a decent choice from a dry, salt free state.

7

Yeah, I was wondering that myself. I think the 10 speed was an option in some of the earlier years as well but forget which ones. Actually I just looked and see that the 10 speed came out in 2015 and the 6 speed was dropped as an option in 2018. So there were a few years to work out bugs by 2018 but I have a friend who had two 2018’s with the 5.0 and 10 speed. One was personal and he had no issues. The other was a work truck so it probably led a hard life. He said it was always shifting funny and was annoying but never really got worse. He also had an older 6 speed version for a while and seemed to like that better overall than the 10 speed.

All these trucks I am looking at are a significant discount and are overall in good condition. Basically I could cover the cost of a new transmission or engine and still have money left over. I hope that doesn’t happen but it is a gamble. I have always gone with manual transmissions in the past as well. It seems like with the most basic of maintenance and proper driving technique, they are more reliable than an automatic. I have read that the gears are actually stronger in an automatic for heavy duty towing though.

8

If I go Ford, it looks like I likely want to avoid a 4th gen/2021 or newer. The 5.0 uses a wet belt to drive the oil pump. It sounds like bits flake off as the belt wears, sometimes plugging the oil pickup. Why don’t they just run it off the crank or a timing component that is linked to the engine via a gear or chain?

It sounds like these internal wet belts have been improved but still do likely fail before my goal of getting at least 300,000 miles. Of course servicing the wet belt is a big job so it isn’t even like a timing belt of old. Literature states they last the life of the engine…….. I don’t like this.

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No, it does not. The pump is slipped over the crank snout as have all Coyote V8s. It is as stout an arrangement as you can get. The only improvement would be billet steel pump gears to replace the sintered metal versions… but only high rpm track Mustangs need to consider that (mine!).

You say you can swing a new 10 speed trans if it breaks… They cost between $7000 and $8500 to replace. Did you know that?

10

My son in law inherited his father’s Tundra. I’m not sure which MY, but I think it’s from early this decade. His father liked it a lot and my SIL is happy with it too, even though he’s only had it for maybe 6 months.

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It looks like the Mustangs are done the old way and the F150’s went to the wet belt in 2021. This makes it more confusing. If you have a Mustang, this isn’t a concern. Otherwise it looks like you get a wet belt in the trucks. Seems crazy to have two different designs…..

Yes, I talked to the mechanics about the cost of a transmission rebuild. It looks like rebuilding or a reman transmission with some of the deficiencies solved is in the $6000-6500 range around here. They say they have to pull transmissions for this so know what it currently costs. I do IT work and when I am at a shop, I always ask questions about makes and models they like and don’t like. Of course anything MOPAR or Nissan get cussed but they ALL seem to be cussed to be honest. I would rather not have to spend this but the deal I am getting more than offsets that cost. That truck which is the one with the titling delays, already has all new fluids in the driveline and will get a new battery when/if I get that one vs. one of the others. The only fluid he hasn’t changed is the coolant.

Do a google search on Ford 5.0 Coyote gen 4 wet belt and you will see.

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12

Wow, you are right! Wet belt driven oil pump on the 5.0 V8…that is a big bunch of stupid!

2.7 Ecoboost, too.

The 3.5 V6 has a crank driven pump… that would be my choice.

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So your opinion would be that if I go 2021 or newer, the 3.5 Ecoboost would be the way to do? I guess it is trading off concerns about turbos vs. concerns about this wet belt.

I understand that the 3.5 got a major upgrade in 2019. Prior to then they had one long timing chain for both cylinder banks. I guess this could stretch, resulting in timing problems, jumped time and bent valves, etc. They went to two separate timing chains in 2019, one for each cylinder bank. I guess the timing problems on this engine were no more after this change. That being said, engines with timing problems generally went the full Ford suggested OCI and with conventional oil. It sounds like with good maintenance even the old design is not really bad.

14

I have no problems with turbos. They have been in cars for 64 years! And in 3 of mine… in a 1985, a 2001 and a 2014 cars totaling about 230K miles.

Dual timing chains just sounds like a good design change.

15

For anything in your year range, I am a Toyota guy through and through, and most of the issues with the older ones have been resolved with warranty work and updates…

If you are thinking of going with the a Tundra, then take some time and look through the Tundra Forum, you can find out about anything you need, or join and simply ask the guys/gals that have gone the mileage in these trucks…

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I would buy a Chevrolet Silverado from the 1999-2005 generation, which has no VVT, no direct injection, no transmission with unnecessary number of gears, no “chip key” security system, etc. Find one with less than 200k miles and no rust, and you will have a great truck for many years.

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He has 2 Fords and a Chevrolet from that period, this will be truck number 4.

18

I happen to have a 2019 F-150. Mine is one of the most common configurations that you’ll come across ( Supercrew, shortbed, 4WD, 3.5L Ecoboost, A10). Bought it new, it’s been flawless, though it is a second car and I only put around 5k miles year on it, if that. I have the XLT 302A, so you get things like navigation, power windows/locks/pedals/seats, heated cloth seats, a rear e-locker. You don’t get leather and you don’t get the proximity key with the XLT unfortunately.

I did an overview of the truck when I got it. You can skip the first few paragraphs of exposition

Lifetime fuel economy has been 19.9 MPG, with thrift reaching as high as 24-25 MPG on the highway. I’ve always been impressed with the 3.5L Ecoboost’s low and mid-range grunt, it’s a great truck engine IMHO. The 5.0L is fine as well, but it’s a higher strung engine.

My previous truck was a 2014 F-150 in basically the same configuration (first gen Ecoboost and the six speed being the main differences) and exterior/interior colors. My brother now owns it and he has racked up the miles on it. I want to say he’s around the 220k mile mark now. He did have one of the turbos fail around the 180k-ish mile mark, but he decided to have both turbos replaced and have the timing chain/chain guides, and vacuum pump replaced at the same time as preventative measures. But other than that it’s been trouble free.

19

I have always heard that about this era of trucks. The issue around here is RUST on pretty much any make and model by this age is going to have a decent amount of rust.

Something else I am trying to avoid this time is to buy someone else’s problems and then have to spend as much as a much nicer truck making it a decent reliable vehicle. I learned my lesson on the 1999 F250 I have got. Could have easily had a much better truck for what I spent on this thing….

That being said, some old rock solid reliable truck from that age in good condition would be a nice find.

20

That’s more important than brand. After five years, condition is the most important issue. We’ve owned a few vehicles with supposed low to mid level reliability and had only one problem. The Silhouette transmission need replacement at just over 50,000 miles, it it was under warranty. It had 187,000 miles on it when we donated it. My Regal had about 175,000 miles when we traded it in. It was running fine, but my daughter wrecked it and it wasn’t worth fixing. Find something with a good maintenance record, and you may have a winner.

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