those codes are all misfire/emissions related. I don’t think they should keep your car from starting.
(P1316 is “Misfire Excess Emission” and correlates with the other misfire codes, and p1000 says that one or more emissions readiness monitors are not ready."
BUT! being able to see these codes shows that or ECM is powered up and operating.
do you have live data on this reader? Can you view live data while trying to start the engine? What I would want to look at first is RPM’s- they should be at zero with Key on Engine Off- and increase when trying to start the engine. Since your RPM gauge didn’t move when trying to start, I think it will also stay at zero. The computer needs to see movement here in order to start.
The data from the code reader is above mt pay grade…lol
I want to go back to this question.
Though I really liked the retro stylings of those Jags, they are still Jags with British electronics. In your case twenty year old systems.
My opinion have it towed to a shop that specializes in British vehicles or a Jaguar dealership. I don’t know what a Jag dealership would charge for a diagnosis, but would guess under $200. Then you can decide on repairing or scrapping.
Another problem, at twenty years old, parts may not be available.
Was the engine idling when you used the scan tool? It seems like it would have to be, b/c otherwise how could the coolant temp be 208 deg? And how could the rpm be 665? Suggest to explain what you did to get it to start.
As far as the parameters displayed, other than the misfires and possibly the fuel rail pressure, I don’t see anything obviously wrong for an idling engine. Do you have the specs on what the fuel rail pressure should be? 54.8 psi might be to spec, but could be a little low. the fuel trim data suggest 54.8 psi is pretty much spot on. So if the misfires aren’t caused by a fuel pressure problem, I’m thinking you have some sort of ignition system problem or poor engine compression.
I had a 1985 Toyota Cressida that decided not to start, one day. Turned out to be a defective ignition control module, separate from the engine control unit. By the way, if you are taking the risk of jumper cables on modern cars, the negative terminal should be connected to the chassis or engine block, not the battery, and should be connected last and disconnected first. Another time the car would not, turned out to be a cracked vacuum hose that went to an injector.
Some cars will have a service positive post under the hood. Not sure in this case though it would make much difference. The idea is not to provide a spark on top of the battery which could cause an explosion.
UPDATE: Sorry for the late follow ups, if you’re a family many you know how dad’s projects can tend be low on the priority list of things to be done.
CLICK TEST: I tried the relay click test(never done this before). I checked R15 in the trunk fuse box and definitely felt it click when turning the key to RUN mode. I then checked R3 in the engine bay fuse box and it did not click. So I’m thinking I’ll pop over to the auto store and grab a replacement for that. My question is if the relay needs to be a “jaguar” brand relay. Currently all the relays are imprinted with “jaguar”, but since it’s a 2003 jag and they were owned by Ford at the time I should be fine using a ford relay… right?
LIVE DATA: I tried accessing the live data with my scanner and failed. Maybe I have a cheap scanner, but it can’t access live data unless the car is actually running. What’s more I tried access the freeze frame data again to double check things and my scanner said that the previously stored freeze data was unavailable and now it won’t read any data. I’m thinking maybe the previous data was stored from the last time I used it while the car was running.
TLDR: Going to try replacing relay R3 in the front fuse box.
That’s also what pro-mechanic Nevada is speculating above. Not sure why you couldn’t obtain the same freeze frame data, maybe the computer automatically deletes it after it is scan-tool retrieved, done to free up memory.
Have you or your shop tried either of the two tests in my post 11 above?
Checking for visible spark is still on my to do list. I don’t have a shop. I recently moved so my usual mechanic who knows the car isn’t nearby and I’m holding off on paying to have it towed to a new shop. For now, I’m seeing what I can do on my own first.
No spark, or no fuel. An easy DIY test is to spray some starting “ether” into the air intake of the air cleaner. Then try to start the engine. If the engine fires up briefly then quits, that suggests you have spark but not fuel delivery. If it does not fire up at all, no spark.
Confirm in your owner’s manual but I believe R3 is the horn relay. That won’t click until you press the horn button so, obviously, replacing that won’t help. R7 (under the hood) is the engine management relay and R18 (passenger compartment) is the ignition relay - those are probably the only two relays that would keep it from starting.
I did not feel a click on R3. I tried swapping the relay with another one that did click. Again, R3 did not click. Maybe it is because R3 is actually for the horn, as suggested. I’ve been following a diagram online that labels it as ignition.
Moderate-current relays like the ones your are testing are pretty uncommon failure items by reports here. Best to test at the part the relay powers up. Is it getting its electrical power input when it should ? Or even further down the line, at the tip of the spark plug, etc. The best debugging method often depends on what’s easiest to try. The starter spray idea mentioned by @shanonia above is usually pretty easy to do. Suggest to use an actual “starter spray” product. That seems to work better than the substitutes, by my experience anyway.
Did we ever hear if it is missing fuel or spark? Is the computer communicating or dead? I don’t think you will pull any codes with a dead computer. Cranks but won’t start chart? No I’d light on injector? Back to basics or tow.
