I think I’ll try spraying some starting goop into the air intake to test for spark. I’m not sure where I spray as I’ve never done it, so that will be my homework for now.
Additionally, someone IRL asked me if I checked the “crank position sensor”. Is that something I should be concerned about? Would the car crank if that was bad?
Hmm, a jaguar owner with no money and no tech skills to fix car. It does look good, though.
None of us know if the OP has no money. We do know he is resistant to take it to a British car shop or Jaguar dealership.
We do know whomever installed the OPs battery was not competent, no way should either connection be that loose.
Yes, that model Jaguar with the retro grill is a nice looking car, IMHO, better in a dark color.
Problem is the car is a twenty year old British car, with twenty year old British electronics. Some of which might have been sourced from Ford, but they too can fail.
I have two things in my arsenal that the OP should have had, a jump pack and AAA membership, but we don’t need to go shoulda, coulda, woulda. Even though I just did.
I don’t think the problem will be resolved until the Jaguar is towed to a mechanic.
For more personal context. I inherited this car from a family member who kept it in a barn for 10 years before I started driving for the past couple years. I have next to no mechanical experience, but I enjoy learning. There is a mechanic shop near me that specifically works on antique jags, but my jag is too new for them. They only do very early jags. I’ve tried having them look at it, but they refused. I have other cars so I’m not hurting for a ride or desperate to tow it far away to a shop that is willing to work on it.
Just saying my bil had a jag with the check engine light on. No shop was able to figure it out. Ford dealer might make more sense than jag.
Most customers aren’t willing to pay collector car shop rates. You have a rather ordinary car, anyone should be able to repair it.
Here’s a new video I took to more clearly display the dash and what does or doesn’t happen when put into run mode. I also tried to capture the sound of my fuel pump kicking on. I’ve only assumed that I was hearing the fuel pump so I wanted to post this incase it’s something else.
Here is the video.
Didn’t some Fords of that era have an issue that if you disconnected the battery without a small keep alive battery for the computer, then the vehicle had to be towed to a dealer to have the computer reprogrammed or reinitialized by one of their scanners?
Google that, maybe there’s a u-tube video that applies to your car. How to do it depends on the engine air intake configuration. I’ve never never had to do that on any of my fuel injected cars. On my carbureted truck, I remove the air cleaner ass’y and spray a dose into the air-intake throat of the carb. I sometimes have to do this to start my lawnmower, and in most cases I just spray the outside of the air filter.
Yes, you’d still hear that rrr rrrr rrrr sound with key in “start”. That sensor is used to trigger the ignition module to produce spark to the spark plugs. With no sparks, the engine will crank ok, but won’t start. If it starts & runs briefly w/the starter spray, the crank sensor is probably ok.
Be sure to follow all fuel-safety precautions. The most important is to have a big fire extinguisher at the ready that you know works.
I’m thinking your best option is to hire a pro shop to diagnose the problem, they’ll tell you which part is faulty, then you can decide to replace it yourself if you like.