If my car battery is dead, If I disconnect one of the posts and install my lithium jump starter battery will the car run on that battery and be recharged by the car when it is running?
if both posts on battery are not connected the alternator will not charge battery. id put a charger on the battery. if it wont accept charge then replace battery.
normally a jump pack is attached to +/- battery posts.
I would not be experimenting theory’s on any Corvette… lol
But if you are trying to charge your car battery while not hooked up to anything with both cables, NO it will not charge, any circuit has to have a complete path and having the one battery cable unhooked disrupts that path…
If you are thinking that unhooking the car battery, and while using a jump box to drive the car and the cars alt will charge the jump box battery?? Don’t think they are combatable, so it could damage the jump box and or the alt overtime…
Can you use a jump box to drive short distances, like a parking lot to the garage, like at a shop, most vehicles, yes…
This is not what I proposed:
(But if you are trying to charge your car battery while not hooked up to anything with both cables, NO it will not charge, any circuit has to have a complete path and having the one battery cable unhooked disrupts that path…)
I’m talking about taking the battery out of the circuit and using the lithium jumpstart battery in place of it.
The module on the jump starter cables will internally disconnect after the engine starts to prevent alternator power from damaging the lithium-ion battery (see green/red lights below). The engine will likely stall because there is no battery to stabilize the voltage, keep the vehicle’s battery connected.
The jump starter must be charged using the small cable provided.
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And after all the battery diagnosis, have the weakest link in a car’s
electrical chain inspected -
the alternator.
Went through 6 of them the years I drove my '81 Buick back in college.
Most likely because you bought what I call “drugstore” alternators. Basically Pep Boys alternators. Cheap rebuilds that failed after 3 to 6 months. Even with a “lifetime” warranty changing alternators gets old really fast!
Once you learn there IS a difference between the cheap alternators and the expensive ones, you stop buying the cheapies. For some people it takes 2, 3 or 4 replacements to learn that difference. Some people don’t learn after 6 replacements! 
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Back to the original post. Even if the car continued to run, the answer is No.
I don’t know what is different, but only know charging lithium batteries is different than lead/acid batteries. The circuitry of the car is only for lead/acid.
I would rather replace the dead battery with a new, fully charged battery, or, at least charge the existing battery then start the car.
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Agree w/Purebred. It’s not only the circuitry, these days, there is software controlling the charging process. And it’s programmed to charge the OEM battery technology. I wouldn’t put a lithium pack in my vehicle that has a lead-acid AGM or wet cell battery from the factory. Could get expensive real fast. This is what they call pennywise and pound foolish…
This!!
I know that for at least the 3rd gen Tacoma’s, the stock alternator charge profile is only for the lead acid battery and has a max voltage care of about 13.8V, you have to tell the alternator to provide the recommended Charge Voltage from the battery manufacture to prolong the life of an AGM battery to about 14.4 - 14.7 volts, so the computer has to be flashed (a tune) in order for this to happen…
I am almost certain (no hard prof) that this is one reasons when a led acid battery would be installed in place of the oem AGM battery on some Caravan’s that the alt would go out shorty afterwards… I saw a pattern…
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What kind of 1981 Buick?
Out of curiosity, why would you do such a thing?
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Battery is bad. Replace battery.
Not good to use alternator to fully charge dead battery.
No, the booster won’t be charged and you will likely cause some damage to the electrical system on your car. Boosters are only intended to supplement the battery, not replace it.
A quick story… When I was in auto tech school, we had a 2008 Corvette (same as OP) that was in the shop (school vehicle). I was in my first electrical class and my instructor said a car will run without the battery. I was doubtful. He said “Go try it.” So, I started the Corvette and then disconnected the battery. It ran fine for almost 5 minutes with no issues and no damage (used that vehicle for many projects after that). Not sure I’d try it on my personal vehicle and certainly not a customer’s vehicle.
Might depend on if the alt is a fail safe alternator or not (with internal regulator), like the older fords did (or still do, as others do as well I’m sure), the alt would not charge if battery voltage was below X amount… I don’t remember GM being that way…
So there you go. Take the answer you want and report back.
With some vehicles the engine will stall when the brake is applied to shift out of park, the charging system doesn’t respond fast enough to keep the system voltage above 10 volts when lights are switched on. That makes it difficult to drive from the parking lot to the shop. The old type booster pack is an advantage in that case, leave it connected while driving.
Do you buy a new battery every time your battery becomes discharged?
Share your experiences, which model lithium-ion booster do you have?
If the car battery is dead, can you disconnect it and use your jump starter in its place? Didn’t anyone.understand the question?
No, you should leave the car battery connected while using the jump starter.
Why would you want to operate the engine without the battery connected?