Audible grinding when turning right and braking. Also shaking at highway speeds

Alright guys. I drive a 2004 chevy Tahoe and have had this problem for about 8 months. It started out very faint and occasional, but has now escalated to loud and consistent. So it ONLY happens when turning right. I’ve tried to replicate it when turning left and had no success. It happens when I am turning fairly hard at a decent speed. ex. Pulling into my driveway. I’ve already checked the wheel bearings and Ball joints. another thing is that the ABS light is on sometimes when i start the car and comes on every time i turn the steering wheel all the way to the right. It also has a problem where it will shake almost uncontrollably when driving at 65+MPH after hitting a bump or sometimes just randomly on a smooth surface. We just got new tires and balanced them. It did the same with the previous set we had. I know I’m asking for a lot, but any ideas on where to start?

I would start by getting the code for why the ABS light keeps coming on.

I was thinking about that too, but the shop wants to charge me $80 just to check it. I’m probably taking it this weekend to check it though.

It also has a problem where it will shake almost uncontrollably when driving at 65+MPH after hitting a bump or sometimes just randomly on a smooth surface. - OP

I suspect you have a brake problem (get the codes read as already suggested), but I suspect you also have other problems, like shocks/struts that are shot and maybe even a worn out articulating joint, like a ball joint, tie rod end, steering link end, or something of that nature.

The brake problem may even include a warped rotor or two (highly likely) and even a sticky caliper, which will cook the rotor, tear through one of the pads far more quickly that the others, and may even boil the fluid.

You need to start with a good thorough look-see, to include checking the pad thickness for uneven wear. I’ll bet that one pad is totally worn out while its brethren pad (the other pad on the same caliper) is almost unworn. A definite sign of a sticking caliper. I’ll also bet you need some of that chassis work I mentioned. Especially the dampers (struts/shocks).

Get this checked out immediately. You’ve gone too long already. Let us know how you make out.

Problems like this when turning right are usually caused by something in the suspension or drive-train on the left side of the car. Someone didn’t remove and replace a driveshaft or similar component before all this started, perhaps?

I was told that a very common cause of the shaking is because of a shot steering damper, but i looked up the vehicle and there are not any assigned to it for this specific model. also, i dont think there could be a warped rotor (at least not badly) because I would have felt it in the pedal during normal braking. and I have checked the pads about a few weeks ago and they seemed in decent condition, or at least not worn on one side and thick on the other. But I will take a second look to make sure.

The only component we’ve replaced in the past 2 years was the wheel hub on the front passenger side and the tires, but the problem was present before the new tires were added.

Why did you need to replace the hub on the front passenger side? I’m thinking maybe that problem – whatever it was – has now infected the drivers side hub too.

also forgot to mention that the grinding starts when I push the brake on the turn. It’ll even push back on the pedal (more like jerk it) a bit before going down. Sorry guys. I should have put that in earlier.

I had to replace the hub because the bearings gave out and the hub was sealed so they were unservicable. Had to buy a new one.

Have you or your shop jacked up the drivers side front and given the front wheel a spin, listening for unusual noises as it spins, and then pulling/twisting the tire, checking for an unusual amount of bearing play?

checked for play and there was none. When I spun it, there was a very quiet sort of clicking. kind of like if there was a few grains of sand in there. I got a second opinion from an experienced tech and he said that it was fine.

Bouncing around sounds like a bad strut. Have the brake pads and backing plate been checked?

Brakes are checked. found out the “grinding” was actually the ABS kicking in by disconnecting the fuse and trying it out. couldnt reproduce the sound and feel without the module. also, we replaced the wheel bearing because it sounded like it had small bits in it that caused a sort of grinding and clicking. New one sounds better. any suggestions on ABS?

It isn’t unusual for wheel bearing to make a sort of clicking sound, sort of like like balls dropping on the floor, as you spin an unloaded wheel. It’s not very loud, but is noticeable. For a wheel that is jacked up off the ground. Usually that’s normal.

You fuse test showing it is the ABS is pretty hard to dispute. ABS problems are often caused by a problematic wheel speed sensor. Those sensors can usually be tested one by one, but sometimes it requires a special type of scan tool specific to the brand that most diy’ers wouldn’t have.