Are the Cap/Rotor still good?

[Barkydog]

Your first pic showed ends on the plugs that were different colors, the goop on the plugs looked bad, your rotor looked bad and the cap was ok but not great, just my humble opinion. My car new cap rotor plug wires and plugs. You asked me to be candid, just being honest @sciconf

[sciconf]

@Barkydog

Your first pic showed ends on the plugs that were different colors, the goop on the plugs looked bad, … My car new cap rotor plug wires and plugs. You asked me to be candid, just being honest @sciconf

Thank you for being candid @Barkydog. I appreciate it.
Its the same removed sparks - photo taken indoor.

[mdixter]

The rotor is burned. Also surprised no one mentioned all the dust inside the cap. I’ve opened distributors with 100 and 200K that were cleaner than that. Cheap and easy enough to replace so do it. I don’t think that’s your only problem though. I’m suspecting the distributor itself. Honda’s of a certain vintage suffer the red dust of death. You may be on the slippery slope. Hard to tell from the photo, but the gaps look large too.

[sciconf]

@Barkydog

Your first pic showed ends on the plugs that were different colors, the goop on the plugs looked bad

@Barkydog: The plug were in there for about a month as part of testing - I had applied more anti seize than needed - that is grey in color and kind of visible when I removed it. Were you perhaps referring to this?

Also, when I checked with the Spark Tester, Cyl #4 had significant spots with no sparks - see the link below:
https://youtu.be/0kBRuDByuiY

Also what is exactly “goop” means?

[sciconf]

@mdixter

The rotor is burned. Also surprised no one mentioned all the dust inside the cap. I’ve opened distributors with 100 and 200K that were cleaner than that. Cheap and easy enough to replace so do it. I don’t think that’s your only problem though. I’m suspecting the distributor itself. Honda’s of a certain vintage suffer the red dust of death. You may be on the slippery slope. Hard to tell from the photo, but the gaps look large too.

@mdixter - Big thank you.
Yes, the above post has a link when tested for arcs - you may notice intermittent sparks. I think that the failing Dizzy caused the damage to rotor and cap. Appreciate your thoughts?

[sciconf]

Is there a trick in replacing the Dizzy without affecting the Timing?
The drawing of lines only help if you are putting the same assembly back.
Tips?

[mdixter]

No trick. Hondas have the key on the distributor shaft offset from center. It will only seat one way, eliminating the old problem whether you’d be 180 degrees out of time. The distributor has to be loosened to be removed, so it will still need adjusting after the new distributor is installed. Easy enough to do with a timing light. If you don’t have one ask a friend or it should be a cheap rental at a parts store. Save yourself some frustration by making sure the timing marks on the crank pulley are visible. The web is full of how to videos.

[sciconf]

Thanks @mdixter
Its a big help and decided to do it myself after your post

[Renegade]

Save yourself some frustration by making sure the timing marks on the crank pulley are visible.

The best way I have found to make sure the timing marks are visible is by using whiteout if you can still find it or white paint with a fine tip brush.

[db4690]

have you performed a compression test on all 4 cylinders?

If you do, please post the numbers

[sciconf]

@db4690

have you performed a compression test on all 4 cylinders?

If you do, please post the numbers

@db4690 - Thank you.
I am working on it - will do.

[sciconf]

@db4690

have you performed a compression test on all 4 cylinders?

If you do, please post the numbers

Compression is 180, 175, 181, 190 (where misfire happens) psi. Room temp was around 65F. Car was warmed up for 6 mins.

Cylinder pressure must not exceed 199psi or be any lower than 135psi.

Can I try driving the car at high speed?

[sciconf]

@db4690 - I updated the compression.

[Barkydog]

Have you replaced the cap and rotor?

[sciconf]

@Barkydog

Have you replaced the cap and rotor?

Yes of course, also

• Sparks and Spark wires
• ignition coil on Dizzy

[circuitsmith]

Now maybe swap fuel injectors.

[sciconf]

I put FI cleaner, the Red Fluid, S1 cleaner, and went back 87 gas - so I still have about 5 gals of 91 gas in it.
Immediately misfire stopped at idle.
But misfire happening at 2.5k rpm. Thoughts?

[sciconf]

@Nevada_545

Review the freeze frame data to see when the misfires occurred, it can’t be continuous or it the car wouldn’t be drivable.

Thanks and I just realized that feature on my tool.
If u have any tips on interpreting it pls advice me.

[mdixter]

This is a shot in the dark. My one experience with high rev miss was caused by a faulty spark plug. Don’t understand it to this day, but replaced specified NGK plugs to the specified Denso in a Honda D16Y7 engine and immediately developed a 2.5-3K miss in one cylinder. Going back to using NGK solved the problem. Won’t blame Denso, but can say that even a new plug can have an invisible defect.

[ok4450]

You are assuming a misfire because of a buck or jerk. Maybe it’s not a misfire so much as a lean surge.
Maybe a MAF sensor issue or an air leak in the intake tract; meaning between the throttle plate and the air filter.
A vacuum leak from the intake should manifest itself as an erratic idle with a stumble maybe. The intake tract leak will affect the MAF but have little to no effect at idle.