Back in the old days, it was just standard practice to replace plugs, points, cap and rotor, fuel filter, and pcv for a tune up. Then wires every 25K or so. I did replace the cap and rotor on the kid’s Acura once but don’t remember the mileage or if I used Honda or after-market. Didn’t seem to make much difference but it was kind of an effort to bring everything up to a base line.
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I don’t see enough wrong with that rotor that it would even begin to deter a spark. It might look worse than it is due to the pic being magnified. Blow up a pic of any used rotor and it would look the same.
I prefer to disagree, sure I have seen bigger carbon buildup on a cap, though the rotor looks time for new imhop. At the cost as I stated previously replace them both and be done with worrries. I am sounding like a broken record even to me, will maybe try from repeating myself in the future.
Yeah, got the parts from local shop this time instead of OEM.
Pls pray for me to get out of this misery. Thanks
I don’t pray much, but really hope all works out well 
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@NYBo @sciconf
OK sorry I was just having a little fun. The question has been answered by many great mechanics, on multiple posts and Sciconf does not want to believe the answer. Maybe he has the answer and we have not guessed what he wants to hear? I will try to control myself.
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Emojis help us figure out when you’re joking. I can’t hear your intonation from this distance when you make these comments. 
I find that scooting closer to my monitor when reading replies helps with this. 
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If it were my car, I would lightly sand or file down the rotor tip, just enough to clean it.
Then I’d wipe the rotor and cap (inside and out) clean with rubbing alcohol. Then reinstall.
I used to do that many times in years past with good results.
Based on the pictures, there don’t appear to be any hairline cracks. If there are any, then buy a new cap and rotor.
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If you get a flash of pain and your hand goes numb, it’s cracked.
LOL Yeah, having unintentionally done that test that’ll work but please be sure to capture on video if only to play for future family get togethers. The “young uns” will be amazed to see Dad or Grand Dad move so fast and string together so many of “those words”. 
For less than the price of a decent oil change or sparkplug swap, if you have any doubt just replace the darned part.
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Well there you have it. Not to be smart but the advice is either replace it or don’t replace it. It either looks bad or looks OK. So you can pick what you want. Reading comments about other problems though that nasty four letter word comes to mind as an eventual solution. Sell. Expect a bill in the mail.
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Despite some wear and burns they seems functional as I replaced with new parts and CEL is still on!
Also changed Sparks and Spark wires.
Likely Vacuum leak or fuel pressure … causing CEL.
The check engine light is on now? I did not see that mentioned before. What is the fault code?
Review the freeze frame data to see when the misfires occurred, it can’t be continuous or it the car wouldn’t be drivable.
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Thanks @circuitsmith
It turns out the Distri Cap bottom screw can not tightened using the same tool to remove the OEM! The plastic is not carved well to give accessibility. I had to use a screwdriver - but not good enough to withstand Fway vibration. I will change it back to OEM later.
Also it appears to be Cyl 4 is not getting steady current - used a Spark tester and I can see intermittent spark compared to Cyl 1 - so Distributor is failing. Looking for a part now.
Like a new cap and rotor? Could not help but notice how bad the boot end on your spark plugs looked, new spark plug wires also?
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