My post #28 had links - direct from AMS = here are they:
https://www.amsoil.com/p/xl-5w-30-synthetic-motor-oil-xlf/?code=XLF1G-EA
https://www.amsoil.com/p/signature-series-5w-30-synthetic-motor-oil-asl/?code=ASL1G-EA
Thank you for PROVING that AMS is more expensive then Mobil 1.
https://www.amsoil.com/p/xl-5w-30-synthetic-motor-oil-xlf/?code=XLF1G-EA
https://www.amsoil.com/p/signature-series-5w-30-synthetic-motor-oil-asl/?code=ASL1G-EA
So what were you saying?
Pls call and ask them/
Customers, 1,883 of them, given 5 star reviews - some say they used it 10yrs.
So how many vehicles have you kept past 300k miles?
You misread my post
Look for AMS āPREFERRED PRICEā
AMS XL is cheaper than M1 - also read my cost calculation
I just checked, their guarantees are for miles āor one yearā, same as Mobil1. You cant put on 25,000 miles in a year without most all them being freeway miles.
And folks that overpay for oil will not criticize it. Whatās to criticize? Once theyāre out the $$, the oil will work great, sure. Just no better than other oils.
Thatās a savings of about $60/year for the average driver. $5/month. Lunch at McDonalds costs more than that.
$5 a month is really a non-issue, isnāt it?
Just use the oil you want to.
I did. Did you?
Itās still MORE EXPENSIVE then Mobil-1.
I would start from the beginning and re-read the thread - sorry
I think youāre working off of a misconceptionā¦the vast majority of people change their oil based on either the OLM, whatever the manufacturer says, or based on preference (in my case with 5k itās my preference AND what Ford says) NOT the brand of oil. As @texases said, I wouldnāt push my oil changes to 12k or 25k miles ever (unless specified as ok by the manufacturer, and truthfully, Iād probably do no more than 7.5k).
Re: the environment, yes increasing the oil change interval is better for the environment. Keep in mind that places (particularly Europe) that have these super long changes have different factors working for them, notably a large oil capacity to start with, and cars being driven fewer miles per year than in the US
There are several issues in your argument:
- if youāre going by manuf use their branded oil
- If I use Michellin tire and I go by what Michellin states on the tire
I would not mix and match.
If you have concerns over AMS oil going 12/25k, just take a sample and send it to the lab the first time to get comfortable with it
If you are using the maximum pressure number on the tire ( no matter brand ) then that is just wrong. There will be a plaque on the driver door jamb that has the correct tire pressure
And manufacture branded oil is not made by the manufacture . Honda does not make oil .
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Wow over 90? The thing is Mobil has regular, at least once or twice a year, rebates. I just got my check. I think it was $30 for 5 qts of Mobil 1 with a $10 rebate, and semi for less than $20 with a $7 rebate. For $70 minus about $30 in rebates, I got about a yearās supply for the cars and small engines. Walmart doesnāt offer the rebate though that I have seen. Doesnāt really matter though, Iād buy it without the rebate, but just sayinā if price is important to you . . . Over and out again.
I haveā¦see my previous post where I noted that one of the oils Iāve used is Motor Craft (OEM for Ford), but hereās a direct quote from the Owners Manual: āTo protect your engine and engineās warranty, use Motorcraft SAE 5W-20
or an equivalent SAE 5W-20 oil meeting Ford specification
WSS-M2C930-A.ā (Emphasis mine), I am meeting Fordās specās by using an equivalent SAE 5W-20 meeting the WSS-M2C930-A Specs
The pressure on the tire is the Maximum that a tire can be set to while coldā¦not the pressure you should set it to (see the placard on the inside of the drivers door for the proper pressure)
Instead of telling people to reread everything, why donāt you try it? I donāt care what an oil company touts their oil to be able to do. Iām going with the manufacturerā¦their engineers have done a hell of a lot more testing on my engine than the oil manufacturer did.
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delete this - its trash.
delete
It means that I donāt care if XYZ oil says that using their oil means that I can go 25k miles between changesā¦Iām going by what the manufacturer says (see one of my previous posts, Iāve made this point twiceā¦)
- You are safe by going with manuf recommendations back in 2009 as your car is 2009. We are in 2020.
- I donāt understand why are you looking at this thread - I am about taking advantage of new and improved:) Seriously, having read everyoneās contribution, I am ready to switch to AMS if I am driving 10k or more in any of my car.
Seriously, I find ROI for my time is diminishing by responding to you. In case you donāre realize I started the thred
OK, one more response. First, I am not taking ownership for anything in this video. Second, the Mobil one he was testing is the Mobil One annual protection which is considerably more expensive than the regular or fuel economy versions of Mobil One. Mobil One claims this oil is good for 20k miles.
Next, I used this Pennzoil in my daughters car for one oil change and found a build up of sludge inside the oil filter housing. To be fair, the car had two oil changes done by the dealer when new and this oil had been in the vehicle for 10k, as had the dealer oil. I have used M1 since in her car and there has been no sludge, but I have changed it every 7.5k since.
Now this probably isnāt fair to Amsoil since it is from 45 years ago, but back around 76-77, there was a guy overhauling the small block engine in his Chevy. He had used Amsoil in it since the first oil change, changed it every 25k according to Amsoil ad claims at the time, and it had a total of 60k on it. I could not believe the amount of wear inside that engine. The cylinder wear was out of spec to be rebored, it would have needed over 1/8" to make them round with straight sides. I was overhauling a Dodge 361 with over 120k on it that had regular oil changes every 4k with regular oil and it still was in spec for hone and re-ring with stock rings.
These are my personal experiences, yours may be different, but these are mine.
Edit: Just to add, while I am not the most OCD on oil changes, often going over the interval a little, I do use oil that meets the specs for the vehicle, even though I do usually buy whatās on sale or I can get the cheapest. I use the cheap oil filters because I donāt think they are all that important today as they once were and I do not have oil related issues which any of my vehicles. The only engines I have had to overhaul were from used vehicles, one due to a broken valve spring (the Dodge), a Maverick owned by a drunk and never had any maintenance (bought cheap) and a Fiat (need I say more). Iāve taken most of my vehicles over 200k and those I didnāt were due to accidents.
Thank you @keith (and others) for accurate details.
- was yours Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Full Synthetic? Because the video tested the Pennzoil Ultra. I personally liked M1 than Pennzoil - but I used the cheap Pennzoil.
- 45yrs ago, did Chevy make good engines - I am asking because could it be Chevy or even the driver or other factors under the hood eg leaking Coolant? We will never know, I guess.
- If I were doing 25k in a year with AMS, I would test the oil with a lab just to make sure. Its a confidence building mechanism.
Just like posting here and learning and building confidence with my choices.
I donāt know about Chevy but my 59 Pontiac didnāt leak. It started using oil though after about 120,000 miles so I started wondering about Penz.
You can test your oil if you want. Iāve got a couple sample bottles on the shelf just waiting. The problem is it costs about $30. So at that point you might just as well change the oil for the same cost. I suppose if you are trying to develop a baseline-test at 5, 10, 15, 20, 25K to see how long it lasts, but thatās $150 Iād just as soon not bother with and change the oil. But Iām not an engineer and not curious enough.