Synthetic oil, Aside from the Mobil1/BigBox thread

so I bought a 50cc Scooter, and the retailer/wholesaler said, run the heck out of the motor (vary engine speed) to 300 mi, and then either bring it in or DIY 1st oil change with Castrol Syntex. I checked other cycle shops and found that they only carry Castrol. … IS Castrol better than other synthetics, especially in a small engine?

Is Castrol Better??? No…It’s a good oil and I like it. But I wouldn’t say any oil today is better then any other oil out there - As long as it meets the specs that’s spelled out in your owners manual.

I’ve used Castrol for over 40 years (since my racing days) and I agree 100% with @MikeInNH on this subject.

I agree with both @missleman and @MikeInNH on this. Good oil, I’ve used it in my race car a few times, nothing super-special. I’m a Mobil 1 fan unless the engine is a low tech type with sliding lifters, then Rotella-T6 synthetic with the zinc additive that Mobil 1 only puts in their Harley oil and racing oils.

^@Mustangman, So I have a 50cc engine, 4cycle, chinese, variable, - should zinc or a super prem synthetic be used? The importer has a better engine installed than what is normally use. There is no specification or maintenance recommendation with this brand new scooter-other than to do a early 1st oil dump and regularly thereafter.

I probably will use the premium synthetic. It’s a quart of the good stuff vs a dead scooter with the bad stuff. ???

It’s just a quart. But I really doubt there’d be a problem with the correct weight regular oil. We’re not talking about a Ferrari here…

I agree with @texases, you won’t hurt it with regular oil. The simple motor would likely be happier with a little zinc. The diesel oil, still rated for gas engines but with the zinc additive no longer found in car oils might be a nice addition. Regular Rotella is a bit cheaper than the synthetic but how much extra does it cost? $3? Splurge a little or change a bit more frequently. I change my lawnmower more than I need to but is so easy and uses so little.

you’all know that the more you fool around with something, even an oil drain plug, the greater the chance of screwing it up-in this case, miss threading the screw plug. Then you’ll have a 50cent plug that caused you to get a new $800 mower or mini-engine. :<){

Longprime, Castrol is no better or worse than any other brand name oil.

But I’m concerned about the assumption in your last post There is absolutely no reason why regular oil changes…even more often than recomended oil changes…should damage the threads on a drain plug. Simply make sure the hole and the plug are clean (if you drop the plug, rinse it well with oil and visually inspect it for cleanliness), keep the hole clean, and take the extra second to be sure the threads are cleanly engaged before installing. And DO NOT overtorque the plug. I use a box end wrench with a handle just long enough to use three fingers, too short for four fingers. That limits the amount of torque I can apply.

Not taking the time to properly engage the threads and over torqueing are responsible for perhaps 99% of damaged threads. And both are totally preventable. I alomost wrote 100%, but perhaps there’s the occasional person who drops the plug in the sand and doesn’t bother to clean it.

I would just use whatever brand motorcycle oil they sell at your local store. For me, that used to be Castrol from Pep Boys (not synthetic). Currently, it’s Valvoline from Advance Auto Parts (also not synthetic).

I noticed a big box store is selling Mobile 1 synthetic motorcycle oil, and I almost bought it, but then I realized how much more expensive it is than the Valvoline I get at Advance Auto Parts.

With an air-cooled engine, I can see why you’d use synthetic motorcycle oil, but I guess I am cheap.

Whatever you use, and this is important, make sure it does not have the “energy conserving” insignia on the bottle (usually two circles - a smaller one inside a larger one). Chances are, you won’t be able to find the right viscosity oil with this on the label, but make sure you check it anyway.

This is a picture of what you don’t want to find on the bottle.

This is a picture of the insignia you might find on the right kind of oil.

I worked on high-tech electronic equipment, often used in critical applications. Such as a couple hundred passengers aboard.

When we assembled these complex equipments, there were at times minor solder defects, even bad parts from the vendor.

We were shown figures which described that every time you did some repair or disassembly to an assembly, reliability went down by a small but measurable amount. That is why such companies strive for zero assembly defects.

And,that is why someone said changing oil had certain risks. We all know that theoretically careful people will not strip a thread in an oil plug. However, there is a small but measurable risk that when a large number of people change oil enough times someone will bung up that plug. Stuff happens.

…and that’s why I replace my drain plugs with valves.