The source of this is due to two sources as below:
This is simple . If you think Amsoil is better then use it . What other people think is not important.
No conflict of interest there…
I would bet a dozen donuts that no engine would last longer using Amsoil instead of Mobil1 when changed as recommended.
Here is another find online:
While I am learning, as far as I see, no one seems to disputing “100% Synthetic” claim.
I mentioned Motul which is available through Walmart and seems most expensive.
@texases - I totally agree - nothing beats changing frequently.
With the trend of 5 yr coolant and tranny fluid (tranny fluid every 5yrs ??? at least that is what the manufacturer says), if the oil can be changed annually, it makes life better and of course the environment.
Another repose caught my eye - link is posted earlier - AMS doesn’t seems expensive compared to M1 assuming you open an account with them:
“Bought the wife a new Honda CRV in 2014, changed the oil after the first 5000 miles and it still looked liked the day it was new. Used Mobile 1 15,000 mile full synthetic oil and after just 1000 miles it was turning brown and it smelled like conventional oil. Still use the Mobile 1, it’s better than the conventional for a few dollars more but it’s changed every 3000. Would like to find out what Honda used as a fill oil.”
I have the same experience - oil turning brown after 1-2k mile - brown isn’t necessarily bad but testing the brown oil is not easy. I used to by M1 for nothing. Yeah big corp has some dominance and huge marketing $s. Yeah Starbucks is bitter so they are at every corner!
Pls look at some of the links I shared. I am learning. Perhaps for modern cars (eg direct injection), if you can not choose the correct fluid, sticking with the Manuf oil (eg Honda) is better - based on the links I posted.
No matter the brand on the container, what I disagree with is the perception that because a motor oil is synthetic it means your engine will last forever and oil changes are once in a blue moon.
The only advantage synthetic has over regular motor oil is that it may tolerate heat a bit better. As far as contaminants go, synthetics will pick up the same amount as regular motor oil; unless someone has figured out a way to prevent moisture, dirt, and combustion debris from mixing with the synthetic.
You are making this WAAAAAY harder than it needs to be. There is nothing special enough about Amsoil to make it worth going out of your way to get it. And nobody is suggesting getting oil from the dealer. Get oil that meets the cars specs, change it as needed, job done.
And those links mean nothing on this kind of question. There are always links that boost one product over others.
Mobil 1 5w30 on Amz $32:
Claim: “Keeps your car running like new”
AMS XL 5w30 on their web:
Preferred Price: $28.35 + free ship if you spend $100
12,000-miles or one year, whichever comes first, between oil changes
AMS Signature Series 5w30 on their web:
Preferred Price: $39.25 + free ship if you spend $100
Guaranteed protection for up to 25,000 miles or 1 year
Lastly a friend, who knows about cars a lot more than me, followed me on using M1 on his pre 2000 Camrys - both cars had white smoke - he went back to Toyoto’s conventional oil!
I am inclined to think that ExxonMobil Marketing is very effective (hence market penetration)! Full Synthetic is not 100% Synthetic, a misleading label.
Thanks @texases - I am with you - I am not switching to AMS yet - but I will be an informed consumer if/when I change cars.
Additionally, it might flow a bit easier in sub-zero temperatures, but these two factors are the be-all and end-all of the issue. However, some people apparently think that they can extend their oil change interval to ridiculous lengths because of some supposed “magical” property of synthetic oil.
I have no idea regarding the OP’s current vehicle, but I am fascinated that he thinks it might require one synthetic oil over another, when–more than likely–if it is an “older” vehicle, its manufacturer specified conventional motor oil.
@sciconf: What is the vehicle in question, about whose motor oil you are very concerned?
If I remember correctly there was a regular contributor for this Forum who took a break from the site just because of oil threads like this .
You need unbiased test data if you really want to determine the best engine oil. Find ASTM D5800 and ASTM D5481 data for volatility and high temperature/high shear, respectively. The attached article shows two graphs of test results, all for 5W30 oils. A quick look shows that the MPT Thirty K and Redline synthetic perform better than the others in evaporation and viscosity testing, and Amsoil has the lowest viscosity among the six examples. You have to decide whether any of that matters in your application. They all will likely work well for you, and any high quality Group 3 synthetic will likely work well for almost everyone.
Hey @VDCdriver - I was intrigued by the by the two Youtube video - links posted.
For me its knowledge discovery - I value the contributors - I have three cars and with fast changing auto industry, I want to be an informed consumer.
Are you referring to this post by another member:
"One reaches a point where you one sees messages which are abusive, over and over, and I think it’s time for me to say "I’m done with this website.
This Volvo_V70 person, in particular seems to pride himself on trying to show us how smart he is, and how dumb some others are. IMHO, he rarely adds anything mechanical-related , but always makes comments such as “you replied to a 10 year old post”, “look at your warranty”, etc.
Your last post, where you mentioned getting a can of refrigerant and adding it was met with an insult from volvo_v70. Typical of him.
Yeah, I’m done with this chatroom. More insults everyday.
What your car is worth is on one’s business. My favorite car in my collection is my 1979 Celica, which I have maintained myself over the 41 years I’ve had it, including A/C. It’s in almost showroom condition, and I get compliments everyday I drive it."
Unfortunately, that article is 13 years old, was written in someone’s personal blog, is followed up by 50 comments both disputing and supporting it, and I don’t agree with all the points he’s trying to make.
The author of that blog does say that Amsoil has some of the sleaziest marketing people in the world. He also says that he uses Castrol oil and not Amsoil.
I don’t know anything about the author of that blog. Oil requirements, and hence formulas, have changed considerably in the past 13 years. There is so much “he-said, she-said” discussion about oils out there, you really need to look at controlled lab testing to get a good answer.
@JoeMario - agreed
I read the comments below too
I never seen any marketing by AMS oil personally - they might have had it 13yrs ago.
The youtube video I posted has comparison - however, I do not know the links. I do not know of an independent study. Again I am eager to learn more about these oils.
Like @texases said I am changing M1regularly - at 5k interval!
And that is more than sufficient care and feeding of your vehicle.
Any major group 3 oil of the proper viscosity will be fine for your use. I used group 3 oil and changed it at 7500 miles on my 2005 Accord EX V6. After 179,000 miles I traded it in. The dealer was shocked that the drive train ran as well as it did. You’re welcome to spend your money any way you like, but you could make it go farther if you stick to products that are appropriate for the application.
This is like which is better, light toast or burnt toast. Just to end my participation in this, I used 10-30 dino Mobil in my Buick for 520,000 miles with no internal engine problems. Beat that.
@bing - its you! You need to own it.
You changed fluids and maintained the car very well - I can tell from your posts!
Yeah as you pointed out color doesn’t matter but lab test