What pads are you using and where are you getting them??
Will the new pads fit ok in the hardware that was already in the caliper brackets??
And what brand loaded calipers did you get last time…
Raybestos R-line ceramic. Rock auto. The new pads fit better with the hardware that was already in the brackets but are still very stiff.
Calipers are AC Delco Gold/professional, also from rock auto.
I might go down to the local Advance auto or who ever carry’s the AC Delco pads that match the loaded calipers (with the caliper brackets in hand) to see if the Delco pads fit any better…
Or, just file the pad backing plate edges to fit the hardware as the pad backing plate coating (paint/powder coating) may be a little thicker than what it needs to be… Happens a lot with brake shoes when trying to insert the parking brake lever pivot pin in the shoe on some older rear drum brakes, you have to use a rat tail file or the proper size drill bit to make them fit, from the coating (paint/powder coating) used on them…
Sometimes buying parts on line just isn’t worth the headache when things don’t fit or work right…
Now I do buy from local parts houses on line, but I can return the parts to the local store if I have a problem… And Yes I have used Rock Auto a lot in the past, but not for everyday needed parts… I have also noticed that some (not all) of there parts are NOS (new old stock) as the boxes are very old…
I loosen the caliper bleed screw before retracting the caliper. From what you say, I doubt that’s the issue here though.
It’s really quite peculiar how much grinding I had to do to make it fit but it moves easier now. Started off with the file, spent too long doing that so I put a sanding drum on my dremel and went to town. Still feels “gritty” though. I used a flashlight on the other side shining back toward me to check where the contact points were so I know where to grind and where not to grind.
I already cleaned and relubed both guide pins. One of them works perfect the other requires a bit more force to pull out. Without the boot it feels just fine and it’s the one that’s crinkled up. It almost feels like there’s a vaccuum in there trying to hold it in. Do I replace the boot or just let it ride?
That is good, I’ve had them pull themselves back in from the vacuum…
I would finish it by using the flat file to smooth and even it all out…
I got it on the car and got it all back together. I bought a torque wrench a couple days ago. Rounded off the bolthead for one of the caliper bracket bolts, think it was because I used a 12 point socket on it with my torque wrench. Amateur mistake I suppose, didn’t think to check for that when I was getting a set of sockets. At least my wheels are torqued to spec (100 ft lbs) lol.
Knowing the pedal was going to the floor the first few times I pumped it before leaving the driveway to get pedal and went low and slow around the block to make sure that they worked and weren’t dragging. When I got back I felt the wheels and even rotors and they both felt cool to the touch.
My question is now how should I properly bed in these brakes? My last set came with a specific set of instructions, this one didn’t.
Yes!!!
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Good for you. Torqued and ready to roll. Surprising (to me), I find those caliper bolts laying in the street quite frequently while on bicycle rides , one of the most frequent street-found fasteners. Good quality bolts too, high strength rating. Brake caliper bolts laying in the street is a little worrying if you think about it …lol…
I found a video on youtube by raybestos about bed in procedure so I just used that. Several 40-10mph stops with moderate breaking and a 30 sec/1/4 mile cooldown in between. Wheels felt pretty hot when I got home but I suppose that’s normal considering what just happened prior.
They feel pretty good to me. As for the caliper bolts I like it when I find them holding two things together. I’d probably be more worried if I seen those in the road than a set of caltrops.
Thanks guys, looks like I might be able to stick a fork in this one.
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You may find that bad gas will run OK for a while, and the carb clog up as the tank empties… Especially when a tank has a lot of old fuel, dilution with new fresh isn’t always sufficient.
Great job. Suggest to be on the look-out for a new caliper bolt, so you’ll have a good one to use (without rounded corners) for the next brake pad job.
Carburetor? What’s that? 
Yes, old fuel can be a problem. But one year isn’t nearly long enough for gas to go stale.
Depends on climate gas can go bad in a few weeks here. Carb…… or fuel injectors…… both can be clogged by bad fuel. Especially ethanol or methanol because of its affinity for moisture in a humid place. We use only ethanol free fuel for small engines and boats in our area and boats have fuel water separating filters. Ethanol is a big headache.