You should have an external fuel filter along the frail rail (yes I know it’s an unibody) area… Just unhook the quick disconnect connector at the input to the filter and pump away, safely that is…
Locate the Srchader valve on the fuel rail.
Take a tire valve core tool and remove the core from the valve.
Connect a hose to the valve so the gas can pour into a container.
Tester
Yeah that was the plan. I used a fuel pressure tester on this car a long time ago when diagnosing a misfire (turned out to be ignition coil for cylinder 2). I was just overthinking it with the talk about fuel filters and all.
Just FWIW:
About 10 years ago, I went looking for a used minivan and found one that had been sitting outdoors for well more than 2 years, the owner had lost track of how long it had been “resting”.
With no other preparation that I can recall, it cranked over with a jump, then started, though it did take several seconds longer than one would expect of a car driven regularly. It ran a little rough for the first few minutes, was obviously clearing up as I drove to a gas station. Never had any fuel related issue afterward in the 3 or 4 years I had it. Never added dry gas.
One year gasoline isn’t a problem unless the gas tank vents rusted through and the EVAP system is no longer sealed.
After 2 years it may not run as well. But you can some freash gasoline and it will be all right.
The gas tank is vented thru the vent valve which is normally open.
Tester
It goes through the charcoal canister. That must trap the gasoline fumes and recapture them when the temperature drops.
What is an evaporative vent valve?
It is a part of the vehicle’s evaporative emissions system, which is designed to capture and recirculate evaporative emission from the fuel back into the engine bay. It is the job of the EVAP vent solenoid to allow air into the charcoal canister so that the EVAP system can pressurize and function properly.Jan 7, 2016
Tester
You’re on the right path, disconnect the fuel filter at or near the rail, pump into a coffee can until the fuel is “clean” (a couple of pints), replace the filter, add fresh gas and give it a go
Remember that it will take a few tries to pressurize/bleed the air from the system but even with this approach some of the injectors may need replacement (not a big deal) and the engine oil, filters, coolant and air filters will also need to be changed.
But on the other hand the 1994 Chevy Caprice Classic is a really nice start on the Classic Car addiction. An upmarket family car, lots of parts reasonably available, big V8, good handling, RWD and enough room to sublet to a family.
To quote Bruce Springstein in Pink Cadillac 
Crushed velvet seats
Riding in the back
Cruising down the street
Waving to the girls
Feeling out of sight
Spending all my money
On a Saturday night
That has to be a joke 
.
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“That has to be a joke ”
The 1996 Chevy Classic was the most popular car in America, V8 engine, good handling and plenty of space in that era.
with a Well, the 1956 and 1957 Chevys were considered “Family Cars”, my Dad had one.
For myself growing up ,the 4-6 banger Brit/Italian sports cars were the thing.
For today when a smooth V8 is becoming a thing of the past, limited to the wealthy
What does any of that have to do with the OP’s question? Is he planning to buy a Caprice?
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Apparently no one here knows what a Chevy Classic is.
Or understands that you can run a car on year-old gas with no issues.
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Was trying to figure out why @Beancounter keeps bringing up rear wheel drive cars from the 90’s when the “Chevy Classic” was only around for 2 years, 04 and 05 and front wheel drive.
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And is a Malibu, not a Caprice.
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Yup. Chevrolet brought out the redesigned Malibu but wanted to continue the previous generation and renamed it the Classic. As mentioned above by @davesmopar, it was a fleet car meant to save fleet buyers a few hundred bucks.
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well my used part showed up on my porch today looking like this. The pulley turns a bit then binds. Guess I’ll be getting a refund and just buying a reman from a local shop for more money. Anyone have any experience in situations like this?
Bummer, after waiting and anticipating getting it done. Buying a reman locally makes sense if your patience is at an end. Is there an auto electric shop available to you? They can probably repair your OEM. I think a trouble-free future is somewhat more likely there than with something rebuilt/reman from a parts supplier.
I once got an oil pan from a distant auto recycler. It was not the right fit - obvious immediately. I emailed them and they refunded my credit card right away and said don’t bother sending it back. That was a quick resolution as far as it went. I ended up ordering a new one from Amazon and waiting a few more days. It fit OK.
Good luck. Looking forward to hearing more about your project.
I called a local auto electric shop earlier actually. They couldn’t give me a price over the phone on a repair but said they do do repairs. I asked him about a reman and he said he’d be in contact with me again tomorrow (I called right before closing time I guess). I was looking forward to tackling this this weekend, hopefully I still can without breaking the bank.
Wait what??? Wen did the alt come into play here???
But I would never buy a used alt or starter… Stay away from AZ, long discussion on a different thread about parts from AZ… lol