I have a 2007 Chevy Tahoe with electronic air shocks. I recently replaced them with an aftermarket Suncore passive shock kit. The shocks went on easily enough. To trick the stabilitrak sensore there is a resistor the electronic sensors are connected to. Before buying this I read several examples of this product being successful. Mine, is not, I have several lights on including ABS, Stabilitrack, traction control, and suspension system. I believe they all run off the same circuit so I am reasonably confident it isn’t coincidence these lights are on. Its tempting to say I hit a separate sensor which is causing this problem. And while this is possible, I think a separate sensor would not set off the suspension light. I see many, many posts of people trying this conversion kit and being unsuccessful. Any words of wisdom, is it even possible to get this to work? I’m thinking of taking this off and trying the Arnott system…
Have you asked at a dealership? They may have dealt with this problem before. It may be necessary to reprogram something in the car’s configuration memory to tell the computer not to look for those sensors. Hopefully someone here will know a little more about this … best of luck.
It MIGHT be possible for the dealership to tell the body control module, brake control module, cluster, etc. that the vehicle does not have air shocks
I’m saying that because we have lots of Yukons . . . corporate twin of Tahoe . . . in our fleet, and none of them have air suspension
I have read it is possible to burn in the main chip to make this change. I have no idea where I would go to do this. The lights also don’t bother me that much. In general, I think the answer I’m looking for has more to do with the resistor I’ve used. I would buy the Arnott system first, which has a product that plugs into a module that sorts out this problem, before I let someone reprogram the computer. I’ve lived in many parts of the world where a dealership was the place to take your car for the final opinion. Unfortunately, I don’t live in that part of the world right now. The only reason I would ever go to a dealer is for warranty work. Thank you for your thoughts on this issue.
Have you contacted the provider of the passive shocks to see if they can provide an answer?
With Lincolns that have the air ride converted to standard shocks and struts a single wire at the ride control module is snipped and that keeps the air ride error message and infernal beeping from droning on.
I’ve purchased an Arnott conversion kit before and while I hate to publicly bash a company, I will say that I was very disappointed with the product for a number of reasons.
You might also consider checking the American Air Suspension site for info and/or emailing them for suggestions. The guy who runs that outfit is very sharp on this stuff.
These shocks have a solenoid valve inside to switch from soft to hard as well as air lift-bags on the rear shocks. The computer is looking for a resistance of about 1 ohm resistance across the 2 wire connector at each shock so its own computer knows the shock is still there and connected. You may be able to fool the suspension computer by jumping across each of the shock connectors with a 1 ohm resistor to fool it into thinking the shock is still there,
The suspension computer communicates with the ABS/Stability/Traction control control computer to assist when they are trying to save you. The suspension computer also looks for the 4 wheel position sensors and the compressor that fills the air lift bags on the shocks. If ANY of that is missing, all the lights go on. I doubt the dealer can reprogram the car to ignore the suspension computer.
Put the old shock in cargo area. Run wire to it. Computer will be happy
I agree on all counts. The resistor I mention is exactly the process you mention. It didn’t work…
Cavell, that is an interesting, interesting thought. Thank you
I am attempting to contact the manufacturer will alert this post when I hear back. I see a resistor with a different Ohm rating sold for this vehicle, I wonder if that is the problem…
“I have a 2007 Chevy Tahoe with electronic air shocks. I recently replaced them with an aftermarket Suncore passive shock kit.”
Why did you do that?
When my Bonneville acted like the rear shocks were bad I suspected a problem with the leveling module or wiring, etcetera. The air pump was not function properly (I can hear it cycle after start-up.) I thought about just putting on regular passive shocks to solve the nightmare.
Instead, I crawled under to have a physical look to begin my diagnosis. The rubber boots that are part of the inflation system were rotted out and oil was leaking!
I thought that new air shocks would cost a small fortune. I was shocked that a pair of Monroe OE style replacement air shocks cost me about $30 and were in stock at my local auto parts store!
They weren’t even difficult to install in my driveway. They function as new from the factory. I’m happy. The Bonneville’s proud.
I did that because replacement shocks for this vehicle, last year, were $1500 just for parts. This model has historically been notorious for expensive shocks. This being said, I’ve been pricing shocks and they’ve come down since I purchased this kit, but that is not the issue at hand…
"I did that because replacement shocks for this vehicle, last year, were $1500 just for parts."
I see! That is crazy for shocks to cost that much. I would not have bought them either.
What in the world makes them so expensive?
Rock auto has oem ac delco for $300. Do u have magride shocks? What’s ur part number? Cadillac elec ride units are $400 or so. Most GM solenoid shocks are in the $400 range.
Cavell, yes I’m tracking prices have come down since I bought these. Until recently this was a significant chunk of change. I’d like to try to make what I’ve got work before I replace, as I’ve invalidated the warranty by trying to install myself. Thanks though!
CSA, until recently you could only buy these parts from GM. When they started making after market parts they cut into the OEM price, but were still very expensive. They seem to have dropped considerably since I bought my conversion kit, or I wouldn’t have done it…
I called Suncore this morning. They didn’t have any notes on this vehicle, but as had been previously suggested I could remove the solenoid from the existing shock to try and solve the problem. I think there is a chance I would still have a check suspension problem, but should turn off the other lights. One caveat, I checked the Ohm rating on the shock, it comes in at 2.0. I believe the resistor they gave me is over 3 ohms. Any thoughts on this producing this problem?
it comes in at 2.0. I believe the resistor they gave me is over 3 ohms
Yes, that is the problem. That means they aren’t Magnetic Ride shocks, they are the 2 position solenoid kind. Try 2 ohm resistors.
What in the world makes them so expensive?
They are expensive because they have two sets of internal valving with a solenoid valve that switches between soft and firm about 50 times a second (while the computer senses 1000 times a second) to provide a better ride. The parts inside raise the cost of the shock by about 8 times the cost of a regular shock.
Hi, I know that this it’s probably late for the original poster, but hopefully it helps someone. I recently replaced my 2008 Chevy Tahoe LTZ air ride shocks with new air ride shocks, and I received the same error. Turns out, when taking the top bolt of the strut out and replacing it, I managed to disconnect the ABS sensor wire. It is a common problem I read from others. It is on top of the frame just further back from the top of the strut. If you have trouble finding it, go to the brake and follow the wire. I reconnected, and everything worked.