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Accord UV joint replacement question

Me again. My 2009 Accord EX-L V6 now has almost 197,000 miles on it. There’s been a persistent shudder in the front end that has outlasted new struts, new end links and turning the rotors. The service manager at the local Honda dealer says that if it increases when I hit the gas, it’s probably the UV joints. And that’s what it does. So I think it’s time for new half shafts.
Here’s the question. The parts are on Rock Auto for about $50 each.
A DFW area Honda dealer quoted the repair today - with two hours labor - at $1,411.00. Why the heck does the dealer charge over $1,400 to replace parts that cost $100 with only two hours worth of labor?

What am I missing?

A second opinion or even a third. This does not have to be a dealer repair.

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I’m thinking about doing it myself, but I don’t have a 36mm socket or an impact wrench, so I’m a little intimidated about getting the wheel lugs nuts off. I’ve watched a few YouTube videos and I think I could make it through the rest of it if I can get the wheels off. I think…

They have axle nut socket sets as loaners at the parts stores. And just use a big breaker bar. The dealer might be using Honda parts, I would hope for that price.

Unless you have a history of doing your own repairs and are comfortable dealing with the unforeseeable (and frustrating) problems that inevitably crop up… and have the tools… I’d suggest getting a few quotes from independently owned and operated shops with good reputations. It isn’t a simple bolt out-bolt in job, but it can be done by a novice if he has the time, tools, manual, and temperament. If not, it’d be better left to a shop IMHO.

A dealer will typically charge 1-1/2 to 2 times what an independent would charge. And, frankly, dealers are no longer as trustworthy as they used to be.

Others may disagree. That’s okay.

I think you mean the axle nut, not the lug nuts, that’s the one that needs the large socket to remove. On my Corolla IIRC it is torqued to 140 foot pounds. I’ve never needed an impact wrench to get it off. I just do a little cyphering and stand on the breaker bar at the right distance to match that torque, that’s enough to get it started.

As far as the pricing, I’m seeing $500-$700 each for the oem replacement shafts, and 2 hour labor. $1400 seems a bargain for the parts and labor if they are installing oem parts. Ask the Honda dealer what experience they’ve had with aftermarket shafts maybe, to reduce the price. Shops do this job all the time, no need to use a dealership btw.

If you decide to buy aftermarket parts on your own, suggest you buy them from a local parts house, not by mail order. That way you can compare them against what you have installed. It’s not an uncommon thing to get the wrong part when doing that job. For the 2.4L engine there’s 5T-A50’s, 6T-A50’s, 5T-A00’s, 0T-A10’s, and 0T-A00’s to choose from, depending on the car’s options and configuration.

I was shown a trick before on how to break axle nut loose if you can not do it by hand or with your weight: get a long breaker bar, wedge it against the floor and DRIVE the car in right direction to make bar to rotate nut for you. Of course, you have to take proper precautions, not to have bystanders and you only need to move the car for few inches, but it was so easy to get old rusty nuts out!

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I dunno but the dealer will use new Honda axles compared to the after-market which may not provide the same service life. Any of them I have bought were around $100 but I wouldn’t do it myself anymore. Even with a cheap impact wrench I needed to use about a 5 foot pipe on the ratchet to break the nut loose and would help to have someone pushing on the brake so the tire doesn’t spin in the process if I remember right. Getting the nut off isn’t the big problem but the strut and tie rod end so you can get the thing out. There’s always a first time for everything though so review the procedure in the repair manual to see if its something you want to tackle and get an estimate from a non-dealer to compare.

+1 to all of Bing’s comments (on this topic).


Thanks Chris!

Thanks for all the comments guys.
• yes I meant the axle nut, not the lug nuts
• I have most of the tools and have done lots of minor car repair, including brake work. I recently completed rear brake pad replacements and an alternator replacement, but with timely assistance from friends & neighbors
• I’ll get some more quotes & look for a good local mechanic

3/8" drive? nope
1/2" drive? maybe
3/4" drive? looks better
removing an axle nut is not a big deal

I’ve used the 1/2 harbor freight breaker bar on the axle nut. It’s only $10 and it’s excellent. I wedge an extension in the brake rotor if possible to lock it. The other trick mentioned is a good idea also.
You could do this yourself but you have to remove at least a couple suspension components. It might be challenging if you haven’t done suspension work before.

removing the knuckle from the ball joint is harder than the axle nut. removing tierod end is not hard. and than hope the splined axle slides out of the bearing without a fight is next. do you have an axle puller?

This is an involved job, compared to brakes, I’d have a good shop do it.

I’ve always rented remover tools from Advance Auto Parts and doing the CV removal job was quite easy after that.

I plead ignorance to many modern car components but what is a UV joint?

I think he means CV joint . . . constant velocity joint

I’m sure you are correct.

When I first saw it, I thought . . . ultra violet radiation :thinking: