I tried to change the timing belt on my 97 Accord EX 2.2l Vtec about five years ago. The crank pulley bolt was in so tightly that nothing in the shop would take it out, pneumatic or otherwise. Now the engine has jumped time because I am about 50,000 miles past the replacement mileage. The problem of getting this bolt out still remains.
Isn’t it time to take the car to a mechanic who has both the tools and the expertise to do this job?
Those bolts can be a real pain. It’s torqued to something like 90 ft lbs. Try a breaker bar with a pipe extension. That’s what I’ve had to do. Some people have tried (but I haven’t) with mixed results. Is to put a ratchet on the bolt and wedge it someplace so it doesn’t move…then bump the starter.
I have done that with a Mazds and got good results out of it. Just make sure everybody stands clear when doing it.
There are impact guns, and then there are impact guns. I used to try to get those crankshaft bolts out with a Chicago Pneumatic impact gun rated at 450 ft-lb’s and it wouldn’t budge them. Got tired of that so I purchased this impact gun http://www.jackxchange.com/products/IR2135TI.cfm and it’s never failed to remove those crankshaft bolts.
If getting it off is a problem, what is your plan for getting it back on with roughly correct torque? May be time to either take it to a shop or buy some appropriate tools.
No, the OP apparently does not want to do either of those things, and he reacts very badly to this type of advice.
He tells us that he is a highly skilled ASE-certifed mechanic, despite giving up on the job 5 years ago when he was unable to do it properly, and then he allowed the car to suffer damage because it went 50k past the mfr’s mileage limit for a belt change.
What damage was suffered with a non-interference engine, and the comment from vtcodger2 was not a crappy comment nor was Tester recommending an impact gun but yours on the other hand was. You have nothing constructive to say, so again, please keep it to yourself.
What non-interference engine are you refering to? Assuming you correctly identified your engine in your first post you have a F22B1. The F22B1 like most (all?) Honda engines is an interference engine.
Im mistaken this is true but the belt isnt broken it just jumped enough that the engine wont run. In my aggrevation with VDC I made an error. My original point was ideas on ways to get the crank pulley bolt off and I got off track for certain reasons. Thank you for the correction.
Or! If you don’t want to spend the money on the impact gun, they also sell this tool. Even has a video!
I think that is the most wonderful thing Ive seen! Thank you Tester I think I’ll purchase one.
If you’re going to use this tool be forewarned. When you stack up the extensions to reach the crank bolt, these extensions will act like a torsion spring. This means the extensions will twist as you apply force to the handle end. So not all the force you apply will be applied to the crank bolt. And if too much force is applied, extensions will snap. To make this tool successful, you need to purchase a 1/2 drive six point impact socket of the proper size and a 3’ length of 3/4" dia schedule 40 black pipe.
Take the impact socket and cut off the square drive end. Weld the hex drive of the socket onto one end of the pipe and the square drive of the socket to the other end. Now you have an extension that will deliver all the force you apply from the handle end to the crank bolt, without twisting or breaking.
Got it, I have everything else mentioned I just need the tool, thanks again.
I hope you are right in this engine being non-interference. But I believe all Honda’s especially VTEC of 90’s are interference.
The good part is you have the skill to fix if it jumped timing or snapped a belt.
I am curious,How many teeth is the belt off? We all would like to know how many teeth you can be off and not have mechanical damage. How badly does the car run being out of valve time,I would imagine out of ignition time also.
You were able to check the valve timing with the timing cover still on? I guess it’s posssible. I say the cover is still on because the pulley is still on,unless you can pull the cover with the pulley still on.
I’m pleased to hear you have so much experience. Now all we have to do is work on your personality.
The cover is not one piece, it has a top and bottom so the bottom can be on and there is still access to the belt. As for the rest, Ill let you know how it runs when I replace the belts.
One could make the tool with a 1 5/8" socket, 3/4" drive with an outside diameter of 2 1/8". Use a grinding wheel to put 6 flat sides on the socket to a diameter of 1.950". Put 6 flat sides around the 3/4" ratchet drive end opening. Grind to a diameter of 1.2", on flat to flat. Use a 3/4" six point socket, with 1/2" drive. Use Mac, Snap On, or Matco brand, and shorten the socket about 1/4". (The 3/4" socket has to be strong enough to take very high torque loading.)
To use, place a 4" long 1/2" drive extension bar through the large socket’s opening; then attach the 3/4" socket to that. Place the 3/4" socket on the crank pulley bolt. Place the large socket in the recess in the crankshaft pulley. Put a 1 1/4" open/box wrench on the large socket. Put a breaker bar in the 1/2" drive 4" long extension bar. Jam the open/box end wrench against the inner wheel opening. Apply enough counter clockwise force to the breaker bar to turn the 3/4" socket.
Reverse about procedure for re-assembly.
OR, buy the special Honda tools, if available.