Doesn’t work on a Honda, the engine turns the wrong way. The bolt will just get tighter. And its torqued to 186 ft/lbs. not 90.
You are sure that it has “jumped timing”? Jumped timing is in the same class as “bad gas” I am skeptical of both diagnosis. You can actually see that the marks don’t line up?
correct, the marks do not line up.
For this crankshaft bolt on the Honda, I got Sears’ Chicago Pneumatics’ most powerful 1/2" drive 600 ft.lb. air impact wrench. Sometimes, I still had to take tea breaks between application of the impact wrench to the crankshaft bolt; and, it still might not loosen. Next day…resume.
The video showed a long length of extension bars (3 feet long!). Why?!
Only a 4" to 6" extension bar is needed. The vehicle is safely raised and supported. The engine is supported with a floor jack. The fender-side motor mount is removed. The jack is used to allow the end of the engine to lower a couple of inches. And, the much shorter extension bar and breaker bar are applied to loosening the crankshaft bolt.
The home-made tool, and the short extension bar, are not theory. I made the tool, and have used the short extension bar. Though, still not a piece of cake, or pie, it is as easy as a piece of beef jerky (met-a-four-uh-cull-lee).
OP, you’re offbase a bit and taking VDCdriver’s comments far too wrong.
If you follow this board you will find that VDCdriver is not by any stretch of the imagination snide and condescending at all.
Jumped time? That means a broken timing belt or one in which the teeth have stripped. This likely means engine damage unless God has a deep-seated affection for you.
Engine damage can be determined by applying air to the No. 1 cylinder at TDC of the compression stroke. If air hisses out the intake the valves are bent.
If the engine spins over very freely when cranking that is also a sign of bent valves.
Need more grunt on an air wrench? Simple. Turn the air wrench upside down and give it a squirt of heavy motor oil. Plug it in and see what happens.
Try a 1/2" breakover with cheater after the transmission (if a manual) is in gear with the park brake firmly set.
Folding a coarse rag 6 times over and wedging it between the accessory belts and pulley can also lock the crankshaft down.
With more skills than most mechanics, 5 ASE certifications, and 21 years of experience in the military and civlian world I’m sure you know all of this.
That appears to be an interference engine. What kind of “mechanic with five ASE certifications and 21 years of experience” would let an interference engine go 50,000 miles over the replacement schedule?
If I am wrong about the interference part, please excuse me, if not…
I did find his comments condescending and not at all helpful, I didnt need to stretch my imagination at all either, and I asked a simple question of which I got some good answers. Its interesting how people can come so quickly to conclusions about how I do work personally knowing so little. What makes you, VDC, Meehan, 4450 feel that you need to make such ignorant comments? Perhaps I have all the parts for the job and changing the belts first would be a lot easier and cheaper than other more major engine parts? Why dont you people who like to judge try a little harder to stick to the topic, it was resolved along time ago.
Again, to all the people who gave me good reasonable answers, thank you.
So what are you going to do? Change the timing belt and THEN discover the cylinder head and possible the lower end is trashed?
How about making sure the valves are not bent before doing much of anything.
Sounds good, Ill do that. Thanks
Thats easy isnt it? Look, no snide comment, no personal attack at the end, I love it.
Since the timing between the camshaft and the crankshaft is known to be off, a leakdown test (to check for leaking/bent valves) can’t be performed, right now. It would be a waste of time and effort to do the timing belt change and button everything back together, do the leakdown test, and find leaking valves.
I propose: Get to the point where you have just installed the new timing belt (and counter-shaft belt) and do the leakdown test on all four cylinders. Then, if leaks are detected, you can decide what to do (and, not have wasted all the time of re-assembly).
You have several easy ways to determine if there is engine damage.
Simply remove the spark plugs, bring each cylinder up to TDC of its compression stroke, and apply a little compressed air to the cylinder. Since the intakes are the ones that bend air will hiss back out the intake if there is damage.
Another method is to remove the valve cover and inspect the valve lash on the intake valves on each cylinder as each is at TDC of the compression stroke. If it is excessive then the valves are bent. The lash is excessive because the valves won’t fully close.
Also, if the engine appears to crank over much easier (faster) than normal that is also a sign of valve damage.
When the crankshaft and the camshaft are out of time (say, from a slipped timing belt), the compression checks, and the leakdown checks, can’t be performed. The valves won’t be completely closed when the piston is at top dead center; or, the other way: when the valves are closed, the piston(s) won’t be at top dead center. This is what “being in (mechanical) time” means. The camshaft, and the crankshaft, have to be zeroed to their index marks, to be in time. The timing belt has to be repositioned to get these shafts in time.
What would you say if a compression test said all was good in regards to compression? You could say the valves were sealing and someone has made a mistake when they concluded the marks were off,would not be the first time someone had it wrong.
What was the path taken to conclude you had a valve timing issue? Did you jump right on valve timing? If my car started running poorly (we don’t know the symptons here) I would have performed a compression test. Good readings speak for themselves,poor (really poor 0-45psi means valve not sealing)
We have a good discussion going here and I think I would like to add more information. Heres the story:
The belts have needed to be changed for a long time but I never had the means to get the crank pulley bolt off and as often happens with life “cant fix the roof while its raining and its not leaking if its a nice day”…if you get what I mean. There are no complaints that its broken I started the thread to get an idea of how to get the bolt off. ANYHOO…My wife was driving and two dogs ran out in front of her so she jammed on the brakes to avoid hitting them, the engine shut off and would not restart. I checked all the basics (spark, fuel and the the cam shaft and crank shaft were turning) and all those were good. I got the car home and lined up the timing mark on the crank to the indicator on the lower belt cover and the “up” indicator on the camshaft was a few teeth off from up (I rechecked this several times to verify).
So, knowing the belt was passed due for changing and deducing that the transmission probably forced the engine to downshift very hard, I have concluded that the worn belt has allowed the engine to loose proper timing. Now I just need to find out how far is too far when the timing is off to cause engine damage. I’ve had this engine apart a few times before so it wont be a tough job, but if there is a good way to check for damage first I’m not against trying it.
Did you do a compression test? results? any backfiring. I am not for a second in agreement that a panic stop can cause the timing belt to slip.
I will try a compression check but its obvious that the belt has slipped. There is NO doubt of that no matter what caused it, the hard stop is just a theory.
Remember if the belt slipped compression will be in the mid-low to zero on one or more cylinders (the zero will be the bent valve cylinders) Perfect compression (I would say all above 140 psi means it did not slip) It’s bad that the belt slipped enough to keep it from running, I don’t see how you can get out of this with a undamaged engine. Not even a backfire?
The compression test came up with zeros, I am going to remove the head to check for piston damage. I have been browsing the internet for remanufactured heads to get an idea of prices. I have never rebuilt a head myself so I think this would be the best path for me.
Of course, the compression will be zero. The engine is out of mechanical timing [to distinguish it from spark timing]; therefore, no compression! This does not prove that the valves are bent. It only illustrates that the piston action and the valve action are out of time.
Set the camshaft on index, and set the crankshaft on index, with the timing belt in place. Now, do the compression, or leakdown, tests.
He thinks they are only 2 teeth out of time,yes the crank and cam are out of time but I would expect to see some compression.
I have (not on purpose) set my 4cyl Ranger (non-interference) off by a tooth,but the little truck did run,it had some compression.
With KIA in 2004 we had a TSB when having driveability issues on I believe the Spectra to check that valve timing did not move by a tooth,KIA was seeing this commonly. There will be some compression when you are a tooth off maybe 2 maybe 3 off soon things will collide