Okay, I’ve done this on other cars, both Fords without a problem but now I’m stuck on the no start situation. I have spark and my fuel pressure is 60 psi. About to do a compression test. Only issue with replacing the belt is that no matter how many times I try removing and installing it I’m always 1/2 tooth off after rotating the engine a couple of times but that shouldn’t be enough for a complete no start. Tried starting fluid. Replaced cam sensor. new plugs. checked firing order. I have spark at #1 according to my test lamp which plugs inline. Now I’m looking for ideas on other tests.
You don’t mention it but did the timing belt break? Does the engine even sound like there is compression i.e. does the cranking sound like it did before the belt broke?
Do the compression check. No reason to chase after anything else until you know the valves and pistons are okey.
Found the problem. My fault in part. There are two marks on the cam and oil pump sprockets. A diamond and a triangle. The triangle is the one that needed to be lined up with the mark for the cam sprocket but it was covered by grime so I missed it. The Diamond stands out sharply on both but and it’s the one that needs to be lined up for the oil pump sprocket. Looking again at my copy of Alldata I see that they do indicate two marks on the cam and oil pump sprocket about 120 degrees off from each other. They just don’t mention it. Repositioned the cam and it started right up. I was avoiding the compression check because the 2.5L is supposed to be a non-interference engine. If it hadn’t been for this link http://www.topix.com/forum/autos/ford-ranger/T1DBKGS8FNH8KLA7E I would never have found the problem because I would never have looked for a second mark on either sprocket. Thank you Ford. It’s my brother-in-laws truck. I own a Chrysler T&C.
The chart shows this is an interference engine; not a free-wheeler. This means that more than likely you will be removing the cylinder head for repair at the least due to bent valves.
not on this list http://www.agcoauto.com/content/List_Of_Interference_Engines
Thanks for the quick update. Now I’m wondering, why would the oil pump need a timing mark?
The sprocket also doubles for the cam timing. The cam sensor is located directly behind it. But everything is back together and the truck is running smoothly or at least as smoothly as a 4 cylinder can even if there are two spark plugs per cylinder.
This is what I found on my 2.5 1999 ranger. The same thing no start after replacing belt. Took bolt out of cam pulley and found the shear pin broken. Now I know that the engine had to lockup for this pin to break. But the engine was running without no smoke or tapping sound of valve’s. And at some point the cam, I believed had lined up in it correct position as it would run as if there was nothing wrong and start as if it was fine. So I’m going to put a new pin in the cam pulley and drive it till its found on road dead…ford. Bale wire included.