You got to watch them Fords. I don’t know about today but they used to number the cylinders of the V-8 engines 1-4 on the passenger side, front to back and 5-8 on the drivers side front to back instead of the alternating pattern that everyone else uses. So check the firing order from a reliable source. Google is not always a reliable source, you have to make sure the site they linked you to is vetted and not some guy who thinks he knows everything, like me.
I know I mentioned this before, but is it possible to put that reluctor ring on flipped over, that is with the teeth pointed in instead of pointed out? They look like they should point out in the diagram you posted. I suspect that if they pointed in, they would hit the belt. Anyway if the reluctor was flipped over, it would still generate a signal for the spark but it would be out of time and quite weaker.
Yeah ford cylinder numbers are silly. I got the firing order from the same oem ford repair manual as the above.
You cant have the teeth backwards for 2 reasons. 1 is that the teeth hit the chain, and 2 the “collet” on back acts like a spacer so the teeth line up with the ckps hole in the cover. You are just dead set to make me tear it back apart arent you? LOL I kid.
Just had to ask. Wisdom comes from experience. Experience comes from mistakes. That is why I am so wise.
Yes actually. A general rule I learned over the years is if something is not working right after a repair, then you go back to that repair because it is almost always where you will find the problem.
Here too, Ive made some goobs in my time. An example would be my first ground pounder build. in about 96. First it wouldnt start because I bought a 305 balancer and not a 350, then it would barely crank. unless I had a 1200 ca battery. I had run new cooler lines to the trans and both were touching the starter case sending voltage into the body.THEN I put on a b&m t gate shifter but misadjusted where park was. The car rolled down a hill and into another apartment. Poor guy was on his couch when his fridge promptly lurched forward into his living room. Then the sight of an 84 bright gold camaro sitting in his kitchen. Thats just one car lol.
Because you haven’t seen it don’t believe (on anything) doesn’t change facts. For others not for you, of course, several engines, diesel and petrol have come through us with the heads blown off the pistons through use of aerostart. There are two choices when one sees damage caused by any human ‘quick fix’ …say something or say nothing. I said something as you know, Use of the hydrocarbon ‘plus’ gases can do damage, perhaps through constant use/overuse. I’ve seen it and that you think a laugh means nothing to me other than to reply one time and reinforce for others you may inflluence, that it does happen. The rest of your gratuitous reply is too intelligent for me to understand. Voila.
Installed the coil, fired right up… But, I still have an issue. While the car did run, it had a slight miss (body vibrating slightly) and after about 2 minutes of running and being turned off, the STRONG smell of fuel was present. So, current theory is that while the old coil was working, it was too worn out to burn the new higher amount of fuel. (or 02 sensor issue? if my s/o is right)
fiance’ said it smelled like fuel at first, then strong exhaust only, and not all fuel. Pregnancy super powers. She and the cat were there for good luck.
edit auto ranging on my meter turned out to be accurate, wires had an average of 598 ohms. I reccomend them. They are NGK low resistance 8mm.
Engine has an electrical pressure regulator. But if I cant find the rich cause thats def. an item to check. Right now air seems the most likely suspect.
You know what you are doing but I have had two instances of overly rich conditions. One was a lazy o2 sensor and the other was a bad maf. Can you check the fuel trim data and the o2 response with your equipment.
Didn’t the car sit a while though so maybe some deterioration of the sensors or injectors could be expected?
By starting fluid I assume you mean ether and that is something that should not be used on anything other than a cold morning diesel IMO.
Two examples of why not. Both involved a lot porter whose job it was to start every car on the lot every morning. He was ether happy so to speak. The running joke was that if a car salesperson lit a cigarette the entire dealership was going up in a fireball.
In both cases the ether had washed the cylinder walls down and the compression was low
(60 to 90) enough that the engines would refuse to start. Not even a sputter.,
In both cases I removed the spark plugs and gave each cylinder a squirt of motor oil. Reinstalled plugs and both fired right up and ran fine; with admonitions to keep the porter away from the ether…
I am NOT saying this is the cause of the problem; only a possibility and especially if you got heavy handed with the ether.
Some fuel odor is normal on cold starts as car warms up during driveway idle. Shouldn’t be any noticeable fuel odor once engine reaches normal operating temperature though.
Checked it today and def reporting pretty lean on bank 2. Also I think fiance was 1/2 right, it is exhaust but rich exhaust. Thing is, it’s from the bay. So back under the car we go.
Can said non ether, and has an added oil in the can to lube cylinders. I enjoyed the info and story though. I think you missed the firing problem solution, my butt is on a second issue now, doh.
Maybe an exhaust system leak then. Crack in exhaust manifold or incontinent connection between pipe and manifold. If your engine has two exhaust pipes, one on each side, that come together in a “Y” orientation, that Y can also be a leak spot. Ray has suggested on the show to callers with exhaust leaks to ask their shop use an emissions-testing wand as a method to quickly find the leak location.
