I found an exhaust stud broken where the right manifold ball flange connects to the y-pipe. Bank 2 o2 is about 6" past that. No idea how it got broken. It went on normally. I think that’s the issue.
I want to thank everyone for their expertise and help.
Good luck with the new family member. And don’t believe them when they say it’s false labor. Just about had to do the delivery myself.
Is spacecataz expecting a new baby?
First post “definitely need it running for a second car before new baby”. So under pressure.
Have you considered going back over all, and I mean ALL, fuses on the off chance one could have popped during all of this? I note there is a 3 amp feeding the PCM and it would not take much to end the life of that one.
What is going to happen is that this will likely turn into one of those so simple causes that one would immediately think why didn’t I go there to begin with.
Since you say it has good fuel pressure and the injectors are pulsing this means the plug tips should become wet after a short period of cranking.
It might not hurt to verify battery voltage is present at the ignition coil in both the START and RUN positions of the ignition switch. Just mentioning that in case the 23 year old switch has decided to go south.
Thanks! Shes tiny (while im a lumbering viking oaf) so im always worried.
Road tested the car today. high idle when cold and zero power brake assist.I hear a vacuum leak right near the booster pipe where it goes into the manifold. The little clip holding it in is broken… Probably it, dunno.
Miss was fixed when I fixed the stud. Starting to wish Id just let it spew oil lol.
Anyone know how to find those clips?
I dunno what kind of clip but if you go to Napa they have that selection of various parts on a display. Thinks it’s the help something or other. Once when I had a broken connection at the booster itself, i just tapped in a plastic fitting to connect the hose to.