First step is to figure out why you have no fuel pressure at the fuel rail during cranking. Spark or no spark, engine will never start until that is resolved. A faulty fuel pump could conceivably still pump a stream of gasoline to fuel rail, but still be unable to develop the needed fuel rail pressure. Sort of like how a failing bicycle pump can produce plenty air coming from the disconnected hose when you push on the handle, but when connected to a tire, only pump to 15 pounds.
Be sure to use gasoline safety precautions btw. Best to do this work outside & away from buildings, and have a big and known to work fire extinguisher on the ready.
It didn’t even sputter with starting fluid? Have you checked to make sure there is spark at at least one of the spark plugs?
Maybe the fuel pressure gauge isn’t screwed on properly.
It’s unlikely that there would be two problems at the same time. A ECU problem or fuse would prevent ignition and fuel pump operation at the same time. But you said you are sure the pump is running. It may be helpful to bring in someone with a bit more experience in this situation to prevent yourself from losing a lot of time when someone else might diagnose it in a few minutes.
Thanks everybody for your help and patience. This was making no sense to me either so I took the fuel pressure regulator off and turned the key. Fuel spurted out just like I imagine it should. I don’t know what the problem was with the fuel pressure gage. Probably I was the problem. Anyway, fuel is definitely reaching the rail. Doh!
Next I’m planning on seeing if the spark plugs are sparking.
Frustrating, huh? So back to testers crank sensor or timing belt/chain. Noise hitting something? Related or red herring?
I remember pulling the buckets out to shampoo my carpet, and the car wouldn’t, start afterwards. Finally had to have it towed. No idea how but a fuse got pulled. I told the shop I felt dumb about it and he said don’t, it took their best mechanic over an hour to find it.
I think the noise hitting something was either a red herring or something internal (like the timing belt coming apart?). I did a visual inspection under the car yesterday and everything looked fine.
I haven’t forgotten about the crank sensor. Does this sound right for my 97 Escort?
If you take off the oil cap can you see the camshaft or any of the valve gear? If you can, have someone crank the engine while you look. If nothing moves, then it’s the timing belt. You have the 2.0 L single cam engine, right? That’s supposed to be non-interference, which is good.
I’ve reached my level of incompetence. @Tester@ok4450 and others with experience need to answer. I just know on my Pontiac, I bought the crank sensor but requires a tech two to sinc it with the computer so requires a shop. Never owned a ford. Does the starter sound normal though or high pitched might be a clue to the belt.
I took the two bolts and two nuts holding the top of the timing belt cover off and could see that the belt is very loose. It doesn’t want to pull out (like I thought it would if it were broken), but it clearly has no grip on anything.
Could be a broken belt tensioner then, same effect. You’ll want to have all the parts in there replaced (belt, tensioner, water pump, etc.), look up timing belt kit a place like rockauto.
All I can say is oh oh. I had the gear shear on one of my Rivs while sitting at a stop light. Total stall. Had it towed. Shop said engine shot and wanted to buy it. Towed it home and spent the weekend putting new gears and chain on for about $120. It was good for several more 100,000 miles. So good luck and don’t skimp when you are in there. Might also have to pull the pan but a good time to look at everything and clean it out.
It shouldn’t be very loose. Maybe a little give if you push on it, but definitely not loose. Can’t speak to your engine, but my Corolla’s timing belt cover has an inspection window, covered by a removable rubber plug.
Given what you say suggest to not try to start the engine until you are certain the timing belt is properly synchronizing the valves to the pistons. On some (interference) engines when the timing belt breaks the pistons can collide w/the valves… Hopefully a 97 Escort has a non-interference engine.
I thought for sure I said that this almost sounds like a timing belt broke. Someone with experience can tell if this is the case immediately when cranking by the sound it makes when there isn’t compression on all cylinders. It wouldn’t be the first time something I wrote on here got deleted.
You don’t get deleted unless you were flagged first and then you get that little green message notice by your picture telling you that you have mail from the administrator
Several of us did kinda mention the belt but it was not at the forefront due to the fixation on fuel.
This engine should be a non-interference (or free wheeler) fit so at least there won’t be any engine damage to contend with.
Just something I always do after replacing a timing belt. Go back over all tension/idler bolts, etc and make sure they are tight. Then rotate the engine through 3 or 4 revolutions by hand until the timing marks align again.
I doubt anyone here would flag a post b/c it mentioned the phrase “broken timing belt”. Maybe something else in that post? And just b/c you mention a possible cause for an OP’s symptom doesn’t mean another poster here can’t also mention it.
Posts are flagged & deleted sometimes for non-obvious reasons. For example, if a posting has no clear relationship to cars and car repair it might be flagged & deleted. I had a posting deleted recently about a breaking news story on a revision to the Calif budget, and that the revised budget would affect the state’s gasoline tax rebate. Probably lacked general interest (too Calif specific) , or not car-related enough.