95 Maxima. 2nd owner and mileage approx 135k

Thinking of buying. Wondering if it is too old and fairly priced. He was asking 1800 but i am trying to go 1400. Ac compressor but he had problems with something. Needs clips on back windows but motors work. I will post the link. Please tell me I am not crazy?




To be honest, even $1800 seems reasonable for this clean, rust-free car with relatively low miles. Surely you understand that when buying a used car–especially one which is more than 10 years old–there are going to be issues, and that is already accounted for in the asking price. I don’t see you getting this for $1400, though it doesn’t hurt to put that out as an initial offer. Expect the seller to come down by maybe $100-200 max.

1 Like

Looking at your other threads makes me wonder if you could raise your sights a little . Maybe you could find a better vehicle and not have so many problems.

I’d avoid 1995 and older cars because they don’t have OBD-II. This can be a pain for inspection, and makes diagnosing problems more difficult.

1 Like

That year maxima is a great year easily 300k (if its running well at purchase)…

A blanket statement than can easily be proven wrong . This old Maxima has expensive problems and might run 1 day or longer . Who knows.

1 Like

I finally looked at the ad. A car in Birmingham AL without working a/c??? Pass on that, big time!

As with any vehicle - no matter the make…maintenance is key. How well was it maintained over the years. Without proper maintenance records then I’d pass.

1 Like

All things considered, I’d pass on buying any car over 10 years old, let alone 20 years.

There’s just too much that could have been ignored, in terms of maintenance, let alone just normal wear and tear.

ok, ty all very much!

I owned one, great car, ran it up to 180,000 miles BUT

  1. The car has obviously been repainted, Why?
  2. My AC went out at about the same mileage as what you’re looking at and it cost a mint to repair.
  3. Common problem is rust through around the rear wheel arches. Once it starts, no easy way to stop it
  4. Another is transmission cooling line leaking/breaking where it goes into the radiator.
  5. Calipers probably replaced or should have been replaced by now.
  6. One side of the radio typically fails.
  7. And BTW my year had the MAF code that could only be reset by the Nissan dealer, $150.

Bottom line, sold mine for $600, one owner, running, no codes, AC not working so I’d only give about $500, $1,000 tops

Price seems fair but I have to wonder why it has a new (?) air compressor but the A/C does not work.

1 Like

thank you!

Obviously, there is a leak in the A/C system, most likely in the evaporator, which is too much effort to repair. Since the refrigerant leaks out, the A/C doesn’t work.

1 Like

I find evaporator complaints a bit odd at times. I’ve been turning wrenches for 50ish years although about 2 years ago I hit a plateau and quit caring about being a gearhead. At least for the most part.

Not once have I ever had to replace an evaporator in all of that time. However, I have fixed many evaporator leaks at an expansion valve or the seals at the evaporator hose connections.

That is why I sometimes take evaporator leaks with a grain of salt and wonder if the actual problem is leakage at the hose connections. One mistakenly replaces a good evaporator which gets new seals and that proves the evaporator was bad to begin with. Or so the line of thinking goes.
I am NOT saying an evaporator will not and has not failed; only that it’s odd to me in all of that time I’ve never had to change one.

Someone brought a car to me once which was claimed to have a bad evaporator and will cost $$$$ to fix. They wanted a second opinion.
The actual problem? A service valve leaking on the accumulator and a dislodged hose grommet on the firewall. Refrigerant was being discharged out of the valve and was wafting past the dislodged grommet into the passenger cabin. Easy and cheap fix. See what I mean about evaporator complaints?

1 Like

Come visit my corner

I replace them ALL the time

I encounter plenty which are leaking

And I have absolute certainty, because I use dye . . . plus I use a borescope to verify the leak

I suspect you worked on brands which were more reliable, as far as evaporators go

And I apparently worked on several brands which were the exact opposite

When there’s a huge puddle of green dye dripping from the condensation drain tube, or I can clearly see a leaking evaporator with my borescope . . . there’s no need for a second opinion :smiley:

Where is your corner? I am in Birmingham, AL.

Ask why a new compressor was installed, and what was done prior to putting the new compressor into service.

That’s the part that can get expensive.

Other than that, sounds like a good deal.