I tried the 40 amp and 60 amp main fuses: still current draw.
Trying to figure the best way to isolate the problem.
What module is under the shot gun seat on floor board: it seemed to be warm. Can I disconnect it and still drive?
Also 17 mpg on 4 cyl: tried a new ECM but still lousy MPG and really stinky exhaust. I replace both O2 sensors 2 years ago. Any help here?
You could simply pull fuses until there is no more 1/2 amp current drain. Then trace the circuit to find the modules or devices connected to the circuit.
All computers should be off or in sleep mode within a couple of minutes after turning off the car. A box that stays warm is a definite suspect. Good catch.
Be cautious about unplugging it if you don’t know what it is. If it is part of the air bag system but not the main brain, you could end up with a SRS light glowing on the dash that won’t turn off until you pay someone with the correct tool to reset it.
RE the poor mileage. Does the car seem to run at normal water temperature or does it seem to run cool? If cool, has someone removed the thermostat?
You could have a failed fuel pressure ‘damper’ as it is called on this car. That might not set a check engine light on this car, which has an OBD I computer.
You could also have a bad temperature sensor on the air or water that is inaccurate but not completely failed, so it is not setting a check engine light.
I disconnected the 40 an 100 amp under hood in that fuse box - still drain.
Last night I pulled all fuses near left knee: Not again.
There are is another fuse box just under steering columb behind a cover panel … not there yet.
Two think wires to battery - it only stops when I disconnect the thick but thinner on: the other goes to the starter.
Replaced themo sensor once already. Radiator themostat in and to specs. engine gets hot enough it seems.
I like the fuel pressure damper idea: you know where it is?
I will check to see if I have any codes set today after new ECM that did not change anything.
Thanks Todd Zapel orion1122@sbcglobal.net
Fuel pressure damper may be attached to the fuel rail above the injectors, but that is a guess.
Another thought - does this car have a hot air duct that feeds it air warmed by the exhaust manifold on cold days while the car is warming up? If so, make sure that damper is shutting so the car gets only cold air when it is warm outside.
5 or 6 watts? Could be a light bulb. Might want to check the glovebox, trunk, hood(?) to see if there is a convenience light that is stuck on.
Problem Solved: Oh boy I fixed something
The drivers door if funky. If not closed all the way there is a 1/2 amp drain.
Oddly only idiot light on dash visible but there must be more for 1/2 an amp.
Problem goes away if door is closed tight.
Manolito Farmboy really helped out:
94 Camry wagon, But now poor idle (lousy MPG) and trouble code problem:
Connecting T1 and TE1 (as Haynes manual says) check engine light flashes continuously But over drive light flashes a 63 code. It shifts OK.
http://aut…l-750h.htm
autorepair.about.com/library/faqs/bl-750h.htm
Talks about TE2 w/ car running, it seems, I am confused.
Manolito really helped out: Fuel regulator dash pot w/ vacuum line on fuel rail had vacuum line fell off to Y joint in intake manifold. The small box on fire wall w/ vacuum line and wires to harness: vacuum line fell off. MPG seems OK now, but when I romped on gas pedal to see how much black smoke exhaust (not as much) my idle is now 200 rpm and dies. I cam gonna clean PCV and EGR filter. And check for gummed up vacuum lines.
Am I going the right way, or dose this make any sense?