I have a 93 Ford ranger that will not start. It was cranking fine. It would take 2 or 3 tries when it was cold but once warmed up it ran fine and would crank right back up until it was cold again. The last 3 or 4 times I drove the truck it fired right up on the 1st try. Then the last time I drove it, it cranked right up and I drove it between 5 and 10 miles. It sat for about an hour and when I tried to crank it, it wouldn’t start. At first it sounded like it wanted to but after a few seconds all it would do is turn over. After about a week of sitting I was able to crank it up again. It fired right up. I let it run for 15 minutes or so turning it off and re-cranking it. About 4 or 5 times. Then the last time I cut it off and tried to crank it back up it wouldn’t start again. I replaced the pickup coil in the distributor, cleaned off the rotor button and leads on the distributor cap (they didn’t look bad and were working fine before), I checked to see if I was getting spark but Im not getting it from the spark plug wires or directly from the coil wire. I checked with a test light to see if I was getting power to the coil and distributor from the wiring harnesses. With the key on power is going into both but I’m not getting any arch when I test directly from the coil wire or the spark plug wires. Ive also switched out the relays and tested the coil and starter solenoid on another vehicle and they work fine. My next step I’m thinking about replacing the computer but don’t want to spend $100 on a part a can’t return if thats not the problem. Can anyone help or have any other suggestions?
The problem might be with the Ignition Control Module or ICM.
Fords are notorious of a no-start condition once the ICM heats up.
Thanks for the advice. I swapped the ICM and I am now getting spark but still it won’t crank. When I 1st tried to crank it with the new ICM it sounded like for a split second that It wanted to crank but after that all its doing is turning over. I checked to make sure I put the distributor back in correctly and it looks like it is. Any other suggestions or ideas? I also pulled the trouble codes and if i was reading them right I got a 35 and a 513.
Test the fuel pressure in a no start condition, or give it a shot of starting fluid, if it starts look to the fuel pump,
It should be getting fuel. I hear the pump run when I turn on the key and on the top of engine I pushed in the little nub and fuel squirted al over me.
If this is a 4 cyl. check the timing belt.
V6 3.0L. It was running good before it stopped cranking. Then after sitting for a week it cranked right back up and ran good for about 15 minutes. During that time I put a timing light on it and it was at about 8 to 10 degrees idling really good.
How old is the battery? Do you have a battery charger? You need a really good battery to troubleshoot these problems.
The battery is fairly old maybe 3 or 4 years but I have put it on a battery charger. It is turning the starter over strong.
Ford products in '93 had 3 digit trouble codes so there wouldn’t be a code 35, so you may want to recheck the codes. Code 513/replace processor (PCM) (internal failure) http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
The light blinked 3 times with a long pauses, then 5 times with short pauses, then a few second pause, then 5 blinks short pause, long pause 1 blink, long pause then 3 blinks with fast pauses. Then it repeated itself.
Unlikely, but sometimes when an ignition component fails the owner will repeatedly crank the engine in an attempt to start the car, and over the course of a dozen or more cranks a lot of unburned gas will get into the cylinders. Then when the ignition is fixed, it still won’t start because the engine is flooded. The solution is to remove the spark plugs and let the gas evaporate over the course of a day or two. This is usually caused when doing fuel injection measurements where gas get injected and the engine isn’t turning. Less likely under cranking conditions, as most of the gas that gets injected on the intake stroke gets pushed out on the exhaust stroke. But flooding as a cause is worth considering.
Pull the spark plugs and let the gas evaporate from the combustion chambers overnight. Then try again tomorrow. How do the plugs look? New ones wouldn’t hurt.
Edit: Oops, just saw George’s post…yeah, what he said…
This is ancient history on my fuzzy memory but I think those first 3 blinks are the engine ID code and 3 may be a code for a V-6. Don’t hold me to that. If your Ranger has a 6 banger then maybe the memory is not as fuzzy as I think…
Your actual DTC code will begin with the 5 so ergo; the 513 DTC.