i have a 92 ford f150 that ran great up until i was driving the other day and my trucks engine just shut off, like i turned the key off. it wouldnt restart. towed it home, let it sit, and tried again…cranks fine, still wont start. replaced the coil…cranked it for about 5 min off and on and it barely started…let it run for about 5 min and shut it off, wouldnt restart. replaced the icm…and again, cranked until it barely started, then it wouldnt restart. today i replaced the ignition switch, and the cap n rotor. now itll crank for days…but still not starting. i have 40 lbs fuel pressure at the rail, plugs, wires ,all new. new fuel pumps also…im running out of money and ideas…PLEASE HELP!
The problem might be caused from a defective magnetic pick-up coil in the distributor. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1006211&cc=1122039
Tester
I think this truck also has the ignition module at the base of the distributor. These modules are known to go bad and behave just like this.
ICM=Ignition Control Module.
Tester
many thanx…went and got the pip…or ignition module…now i just gotta find someone familiar with distributers…lol.
It may be cheaper to buy a rebuilt distributor rather than get the pick up coil replaced.
Remove the distributor from the engnine. Make match marks so the distributor can be reinstalled in the same position.
Place the distributor in a vise and punch out the roll pin that holds the distributor gear to the shaft. Remove the gear and pull the shaft from the distributor to change out the PIP sensor.
Tester
Those instructions would work if the drive gear survives the ordeal, @Tester. Ford presses the gear on and it is a tight fit that usually requires some special handling in a press to remove it and re-install it. The tool required is becoming quite rare.
Gee. I see a hole where a roll pin can be punched out. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=45348&cc=1111936
Tester
And in a perfect world the roll pin would be punched out and the gear would slip off, @Tester. On GMs that works great. Not on most Fords. And the hole for the roll pin is not through dead center of the shaft, so often, when the gear survives being pressed back on the shaft it is 180* off and must be pulled and re-installed and that doubles the probability of breaking the gear. And the gear is not a cheap piece.
ok, i replaced the whole distributer, still no spark. ecm?? cant think of anything else…put off getting ecm due to cost, but now im at a loss.
There are several fuses involved in this so have you checked all of them?
Assuming the TFI module was replaced along with the distributor you need use a voltmeter or test light to check for power at the red/green wire lead on the ignition coil. There should be power with the key in both the RUN and the START positions.
If there is no power, then the possibility of a blown fuse should be considered along with a failed ignition switch.
The ECM can be eliminated from the ignition circuit by pulling the timing set plug. It should be on the firewall. When that plug is pulled the distributor will function on its own and if spark is present when disconnected but no spark when installed then the problem would most likely be outside the distributor, assuming that all powers and grounds are correct.