I have a 92 Buick Park Avenue Ultra with 178K miles on it. My problem is this: the car starts and runs fine until it reaches normal operating temp (accound to gage)or slightly above and then it just stalls as if the key has been turned off. It does this sitting at idle in the drive way or driving at any and all speeds. I read the trouble codes and got a cam sensor (replaced sensor and magnet), Park/Neutral and a 56 which my service manual does not even acknowldge but the test book says is a vacum or quad issue. I cleared the codes, let the car idle until it died and read the codes again, no codes appeared.
My question, could my trouble be the altenator? I put a new battery in the car before it started this trouble and I thought the alternator was bad as well. When I tested that voltage at the battery I got 12 not running and it actually stepped down to 11 with the car alternator running. I took the alternator off the car and took it to autozone. It tested good on all counts (diodes, regulator and rectifier). Could heat cause the alternator to have some kind of intermitten problem or short? Sometimes after the car stalls it will start right away and run for a short(very) while. Sometimes it will just crank and not start and the dashboard gauge will drop to about 8v. On a couple of occasions it will not even crank, all the dash lights come on and a security light comes on. I can then “bump” the starter and it will crank. I can let it sit about 30 to 40 minutes and it will start right up and run for about 30 minutes.
Any ideas?? Thanks
I don’t know much about that engine, especially the ignition system. If it has a single ignition coil, this is what could be giving you the problem. When it warms up, on of the windings opens. As far as the alternator causing that, I doubt it.
This one has individual coils for each plug, direct ignition I think its called.
thanks
Hello?
Anybody else have any ideas? I would appreciate it.
Thanks,
Have an electrician find the source of the current drain. Drains can occur anywhere … starter (even when it’s not cranking), through the alternator (through the diodes, or the cable can be touching the body of the alternator), poor grounds (ground straps, battery cables) through other components, etc.
MY CAR IS A 94 PARK AVE (NON-TURBO). I HAD MANY INEXPLICABLE PROBLEMS WITH ELECTRICAL FUNCTIONS. THE LAST ONE WAS AN UNKNOWN BATTERY DRAIN WHILE THE CAR WAS SITTING. TURNS OUT THE RADIO WAS TURNING ITSELF ON AND DRAINING THE BATTERY WHILE THE CAR WAS PARKED. I LEARNED THAT MUCH OF THE WIRING IS SENT THRU THE RADIO AND IF THERE IS A PROBLEM IN THE RADIO IT CAN MESS WITH YOUR COMPUTER (AND THEREFORE EVERYTHING ELSE IN YOUR BUICK). WITH THE RADIO UNHOOKED, NO MORE BATTERY DRAIN AND ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS. AFTER SEVERAL MONTHS OF LOOKING FOR INTERNAL RADIO PARTS, I HAVE FINALLY GOTTEN MY RADIO (AM/FM/CD) FIXED, BUT I HAVE NOT HAD IT RE-INSTALLED YET. HOPE THIS HELPS, TRY UNHOOKING YOUR RADIO.
The alternator should put out about 13.8 volts or more with the engine running. Check the wiring to the alternator there could be a break in the output wire. Follow the route of the wire Sometimes they break going down to the starter. If you can put a clip-lead on the output terminal and measure the voltage without the engine running You should see the same voltage as the battery.If you don’t the wire is probably broken or corroded between the output of the alternator and positive side of the battery.Also check the connection to the regulator for breaks or corrosion. Hope this helps if so maybe you can help me with my question about changing a cam magnet.