A look at a schematic shows that power is provided from a fusible link through the relay and then on to the pump, or pumps.
A fusible link should not cause a problem with low current IF that is really the case.
If the contact points in the pump relay are burned then it’s possible that current could be lessened and this could also cause a situation where pump operation could be erratic.
(If you’re familiar with old contact point ignition distributors where the points are badly burned and pitted then you can see where this would apply with the points in the relay.)
This would be simple enough to check. Pull the pump relay, pry the cover off, and closely examine the set of points in the relay.
I certainly won’t say the shop is wrong, lying, feeding you a line of BS, etc. but that comment does sound a bit odd. Without knowing how they arrived at the current diagnosis and van in hand I can only theorize and say that at this point I’m at least a tiny bit skeptical.
Well, we finally ran out of time and options so we had to sell the car. Thanks for all your help. I really wanted to figure this out and get the rig rolling right but after spending two weeks and several hundred dollars trying to deal with it I had to cut the cord. I definitely appreciate everyone’s comments here and if I ever have another puzzling car problem I’ll be sure to post here and get some tips.
Hey bill,whats wrong with trying to help the next guy who has a similar problem ? I guess your not thinking are you?
Sadly,there is lots of similar complaints with this van?
Your the only person on the entire internet to make such a stupid comment,like that.
Hi all.
Yes it’s 2021 but I’m new to these vans.
I’ve read dozens of threads and spent hours researching my Van’s issues. Not ONE person posted a fix! Threw all kinds of suspect parts at my 1988 e250. Well, it’s the ECM (computer). Turns out that it is a common failure. Opened up my ECM and could see plain as day where capacitors on the computer board had failed. The ECM is in the cab, passenger side under the heater core. Remove the screws (3) inside the cab. Then there is a 10mil bolt inside the engine bay that holds wiring harness tight to the ECM. It’s reachable if you remove the airbox. It’s a fine thread bolt and took a lot of turns to free it up. Then the ECM slid right out. You need the info on the ECM housing and your vehicle VIN number when ordering a replacement. Mine was $97 at O’Reilly’s auto parts. Runs like new. 100% fixed.
Best of luck.