Van mysteriously won't start sometimes

1999 Ford E150 with 150K on it. This van has generally been a champ, but it’s recently developed a habit of not starting… sometimes. I replaced the battery a couple months ago, and the starter sounds fine, it always cranks enthusiastically, but the engine won’t start. It’s as though it’s out of gas, but there’s plenty of gas. And I’ll retry every so often, and then all of a sudden, hours or days later, it will just start right up like nothing ever happened.

On one such occasion I finally paid to have it towed to the shop. And the mechanic goes out, turns the key… and it starts right up. So then they run the standard diagnostics, said the fuel pressure looks good. So they don’t have any idea what the problem is either, and their only suggestion is to tow it in again next time it doesn’t start, or leave it with them for a long time until they can recreate the problem. Arrg! If I pay for another tow only to have the problem evaporate again I’ll punch myself in the face. Any other ideas of what could be going on, anything I could try looking at instead of playing whack-a-mole with the mechanic?

Thanks for any advice.

Intermittent problems are the toughest to diagnose. You can’t blame the mechanic for the van refusing to present the problem when he is looking. Eventually it will get worse, to the point that the mechanic will be able to witness the problem and solve it.

Which engine do you have? Is it the 4.6 liter V8?

Make sure you tape punching yourself in the face and post it on youtube. It might go viral and make you some money to help pay for the repair and tows.

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Get a can of starting fluid & a spare spark plug or spark tester from an auto parts store.

The next time it is cranking but not firing up, blow some starting fluid into the intake & try again. If that gets it to fire up - even if just for a few seconds - then the issue is probably with fuel supply. This has nothing to do with how much is in the tank. It has to do with its delivery to fuel rail.

If the starting fluid does no good use the spark plug/tester to find out if you lack spark.

This at least cuts your problem in half.

Cig roller is correct. You should get a spark tester, the are only a few bucks. When the van won’t pop the hood and attach the tester. Have a helper crank the engine and watch for spark. It is possible that your ignition switch is going bad. The switch has two power wires and one starter wire. I have had a switch send power to the acessories and the starter but not the computer. The car would crank but not start
If you have spark the fuel is the next problem to check. You could have a bad fuel pump relay.

Great tips, thanks a ton, guys. Yeah, this is V8 4.6L

My hunch is on the fuel problem, so I want to try the starting fluid trick, but I’m not exactly sure on where to “blow it into the intake”. Does that mean the hose where the air filter sits?

Also: Unfortunately I’ve now discovered that the sparkplugs on this thing are ridiculously difficult to access. Can I use a spark plug tester at the other end of the cable, where it connects to the distributor?

Thanks again!

Most spark testers that I know of have to plug into the spark plug end of the boot. Someone else may know of some other way.

You can put the starting fluid into anything that feeds the intake. The most straightforward thing to do is to remove the big black snorkel tube but from the opposite end of where the air filter sits. That’s the throttle body & you can open up the butterfly by hand and shoot some in there. But there are also often other vacuum-type connectors right there near the throttle body & it might be easier to use one of those.

A new gas pump has solved this problem in may fords of this vintage.

I have a 1996 Ford E150. Has 113K miles. Two months ago it would crank, but not start. A few tries later it started. Two weeks later it did it again. Then middle of October it would not start. I found the fuel pump relay was not clicking and the fuel pump not coming on for its 2 second in the “ON” position. I replaced the Fuel Pump Relay and finally the pump. It then worked for two days.

No codes.

I tried starter fluid and this worked for three days. Then it would not, but still cranked fine.

I checked the MAF, Spark Plugs, Coil, EGR all good. Roter and cap were worn and replaced them.

I put wires on each contact of the fuel pump and PCM relays and checked the voltage and ground - all good.

I checked the voltage at the inlet temperature sensor and it was 4.88 volts and it is supposed to be around 5 volts.

I checked all the grounds - all good.

I checked the fuel pump inertia switch - good.

I replaced the ignition switch on the lower steering column.

Then I noticed the Check Engine Light did not come on in the ON position. I held the key there for a count of 4 and went back to first position. I cycled this 10 times and the Check Engine Light came on. When I saw the Check Engine Light on in the ON position I went to crank and it started like it was bran new.

So now I know when I do not see the Check Engine Light come on in the ON position I know it will not start.

I pulled the PCM out and took the cover off thinking a capacitor might be the problem. Board looks brand spanking new.

I know from from testing the duration the van can be off before it will not start the first time. It is 110 minutes. As long as I get it started and only let it run 20 seconds, it will start again within 110 minutes.

Today after the van has not run in 15 hours, the Check Engine Light came on the first time in the ON position, I turned it to Crank and it started right up. four hours later it took 31 cycles of the key to ON to get the Check Engine Light to come on.

I had a scan done, there are none.

My door locks have not worked for a long time. I could pull that fuse and see if it does anything.

I am leaning towards the PCM. Anyone have any ideas?

I have the same problem with my van…
98 e150 4.6l …
Did you ever figure it out?

Which problem(s) do you have @Johnny_Dreddz ?

The original OP’s problem seems like a no-spark problem, crank position sensor, something like that. The check engine light clue in @Billneedshelp 's post above seems like an ignition switch problem.

You’ll get better responses here if you post a new topic, click maintenance repairs above left, then new topic above right.

The mysterious no start problem…
I originally thought it was because of the cold weather, but it is now doing it on warm days while i am at work…
The way i get it started now, is to put a heat gun blowing up the passenger side of oil pan and put my battery charger on it, and in start mode when i hit the key…
Its the craziest vehicle i have ever owned…

I am a mechanic…have been wrenching for years…know my way around vehicles…

New battery…with most cca i could fit in battery box…had starter rebuilt…

lol … That’s quite a creative cranking technique! Ray told a story on a recent podcast about a relative of his who had invented a weird vehicle work-a-round. The car leaked oil like a sieve, rear main, 3 quarts a day. The solution: Rig up a catch pan underneath the engine compartment, held on to the chassis by wires. Before starting the car the next day you remove the pan, and pour the oil back into the engine. :slight_smile:

What voltages do you measure at the two starter motor terminals during attempted cranking? Measure from terminal to starter case. Post what you measure, should provide a clue to what’s going on.

10.8 volts on big post during cranking and 10.6 on small post directly after first test…

It seems to me like the computer is receiving a bad signal from one of the sensors…something to do with ambient temperature…

Im thinking mass air flow sensor…coolant temp sensor…crank or camshaft position sensor…something like that…but usually once i get it cranked up for the day, its fine…

Those voltages indicate the power supply provided to the starter motor is ok. Does the starter spin and crank the engine robustly? If it doesn’t then there’s either a problem w/the starter motor or the engine is seizing.

Cranks over robustly…
3 hours is my magic number…
9 oclock to 12 oclock…cranked up fine…
Up right now at 445…no start…just spins motor robustly…i could still feel the motor was warm…battery charger on start mode, fired right up…
Now i will drive for 40 minutes to the jobsite…down interstate…80+ m.p.h…
I will crank it up at work every coupe hours…take it to lunch…crank it at afternoon break…drive back to town after work…on to second job…after second job…back to the house…
Runs fine on interstate…no spits or sputters…
She is in the drive purring like a little kitten…idles just as smooth as a new one…no smoke…nothing else out of the ordinary…

I do have an egr code thrown though…
Something about exhaust gas recirculation insufficient…

And its a nice balmy 67 degrees here in Louisiana…
The air is wet…