I HAVE AN OIL LEAK ON THE REAR PART ON ENGINE, NOTHING IS COMING FROM THE TOP SIDE THAT I CAN SEE? I CHECKED VERY CAREFUL. I DID PUT NEW VALVE COVER GASKETS ON & HAD PCV CHANGED PLUS I TRIED EVERY REAR MAIN LEAK PRODUCT OUT THERE MANY TIMES?? NOTHING? IT LEAKS ON THE GROUND IN THREE SPOTS. IT COMES DOWN THE FRONT PLATE OF THE TRANSMISSION, BUT I CAN"T SEE WHERE IT"S COMING FROM?? WENT BACK TO MY MECHANIC HE SAYS REAR MAIN BUT COSTLY TO FIX FOR 87?? I DO AGREE.MY CAR LOOKS LIKE NEW AND HAS 108,000 MI. ON IT & OIL CHANGED EVERY 2 TO 3000 MI. PLUS FILTER. ONE OTHER THING THE OIL WAS COMING OUT OF THE DIPSTICK. THAT KIND OF THROWS ME? I HAVE A FRIEND THAT I HAVE CALLED OVER THE YEARS THAT HAS BEEN ON THE MONEY FOR MANY TOUGH PROBLEMS WITH MY CARS. HE LIVES IN FLORDIA. HE SAYS THAT JUST BECAUSE THE PCV IS SUCKING, THAT DOWN BELOW PCV IS A SCREEN THAT MIGHT BE PLUGGED AND CAUSIHG THIS LEAK AND BACKING UP FROM DIPSTICK?? ANY TRUTH TO THIS??? THE PCV IS VERY HARD TO GET TO UNLESS TOP PART OF ENGINE IS REMOVED?? AGAIN NO LEAKS FROM TOP SIDE OF ENGINE. IT:S MAKING A MESS IN MY DRIVEWAY BESIDES TELLING ME TO KEEP ADDING OIL ( I BEEN DOING THAT FOR A YEAR) THANKS FOR ANY HELP…
I have an oil leak on the rear part on engine, nothing is coming from the top side that i can see? I checked very careful. I did put new valve cover gaskets on & had pcv changed plus i tried every rear main leak product out there many times?? Nothing? It leaks on the ground in three spots. It comes down the front plate of the transmission, but i can"t see where it"s coming from??
Went back to my mechanic he says rear main but costly to fix for 87??
I do agree. My car looks like new and has 108,000 mi. On it & oil changed every 2 to 3000 mi. Plus filter. One other thing the oil was coming out of the dipstick. That kind of throws me? I have a friend that i have called over the years that has been on the money for many tough problems with my cars. He lives in Flordia. He says that just because the PVC is sucking, that down below PVC is a screen that might be plugged and causing this leak and backing up from dipstick??
Any truth to this??? The PVC is very hard to get to unless top part of engine is removed?? Again no leaks from top side of engine. It:s making a mess in my driveway besides telling me to keep adding oil ( i been doing that for a year) thanks for any help…
Well I don’t have an answer, but at least now I can read the question.
Please NO ALL CAPS, it is very hard to read.
right off the bat STOP adding oil. maybe youre overfilling it!! try to the LOW mark on the dipstick. have you had any work done on the engine where someone mAY have shortened the dipstick tube???
your second post, why not just use one??
to cappy208 glad to here from you sorry for two posts it"s my first time doing this. i was having trouble logging on so i didn"t know if it got through & i had to ask for help. when i change my oil & filter i get the right amount of oil out. i wish that was the problem??if you read my second post the oil comes out of the dipstick& the oil light flickers. not the check engine light??? but when i rev the engine a very little the flicking stops thanks
I hate to suggest it, but if the PCV valve is not plugged up it could be blow-by, or a cracked head gasket, or cracked head. I think a compression test is in order.
Something is pressurizing the sump. PCV is the first suspect, but you’ve changed that.
The PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) system doesn’t do any “sucking” whatsoever. The system simply allows fumes and pressures that build up in the crankcase due to the “blowby” of pressurized gasses escaping by the pistons during combustion to be drawn into the engine via the fuel system and burned with the gas mixture. The entryway for the PCV system is via the space under the valvecover. That space is open to the crankcase via the oil return channels through which the oil drains back down from the head. There is no screen involved. Between the valvecover and the engine intake is a one way check valve that allows the fumes to pass into the engine but does not allow and backfire to pass back through the PCV tube and ignite the fumes (that’s the PCV valve’s real purpose). NOTE: some cars don’t have PCV valves, I don’t know about yours.
However, the PCV system is the first place I’d look. If that valve is plugged up it will allow the crankcase pressure to build up and push oil through the dipstick tube as you’re decribing. It can also push oil past 20 year old main seals and cause leakage out the front and rear of the engine.
I have to be honest, however, and suggest that if changing the PCV valve doesn’t fix the problem, you simply may have an engine worn to where the pressures from the combustion processes are passing by the compression rings too easily and overpressuring the crankcase. A compression test may be in order. Although the engine may be low mileage, those miles may have been all stop & go and the engine may be more worn than the mileage would suggest.
If the rear main seal is leaking then the low mileage (108k) and the regular oil changes have nothing to do with it.
The rear main seal is 21 years old and rubber hardens over time. Eventually the point is reached where no additive or seal softener in the world will help it.
Hopefully whoever replaced the PCV valve also checked the PCV hoses, intake nipples, etc. Over time, and especially on a low mileage car this old, the hoses or intake nipples can clog up and stop any flow through that system at all.
I’ve seen a few cars in which the deposits were so hard they actually had to be drilled out.
Something for consideration anyway.
what engine doe this have??
i had a 84 (i think) granada that had an aluminum plennum and intake. it constantly cracked, wouldn’t keep flat and leaked oil, exhaust and water on the top deck.
thanks to F… thats FORD MOTOR CO. great engineering. at the end i gave the car to a kid, and gave up on it. it only had around 80K on it, but it wasn’t worth the $$ to get right. It was still ancient then. and your car is way older now too!
the last poster mentioned old and dried out gaskets, orings, and maybe even dried out and cracked vaccuum lines. they are all a possibility. how valuable is this car to you.
if you want to keep it going it will probably take some $$, once you find a mechanic who wont take you for a cash sleigh ride!!
thank you all for your replys, cappy208, ok4450, ranck, samemountainbike, i will ck. out every thing you all suggested.then i will make my decision. hate to let it go but time goes on. thanks again guys