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86 chevy c10 won't start

I had trouble getting it started so i replaced a dead distributor . I found some wires to the ignition wire harness that were damaged so i fixed them . when i hooked up the battery something popped . I put the wires back the way i found them . But, now when i turn the key there’s nothing no buzzer when i put the key in , no dash lights. Everything form fuses, ign. switch , battery , starter, alternator and wires are all good.Only thing that works are ext. lights. Now what ?

You may have blown a fusible link somewhere in the wiring harness. Those are usually located in the vicinity of the battery. Sometimes they are actual fuses in a fuse holder near the battery (like on my Corolla), and other times they are lengths of a special kind of wire (like on my Ford truck). Usually if it is the wire version, they are labeled “FL” or something like that on the insulation.

If it does turn out to be a blown FL, check again on your re-wiring job. Otherwise when you replace the fusible link it might just blow again. It’s possible you have all the wires going to where they should, but also have inadvertently introduced a short to chassis ground somewhere in one of the wires. On my truck anyway there isn’t much clearance between the ignition points wiring and the case of the distributor, so a short there is certainly possible.

That’s the plan today . Turns out there are about 6 fusible links all in
hard cases . The test light say’s the good but they may not be good enough
for job they are required to do.

Thank you for the response ,

There may be a couple of links connected to the starter solenoid down on the starter itself…They provide power to the fuse block and ignition switch…

3 fusible links, all good. cant find anything on the solenoid it’s self
besides (s) bolt for the switch and the large bolt for the +.
I’ve removed , cleaned , and tested every wire for the ignition harness
including the bulkhead…
Can a fusible link still test good when it’s not ? I can only get these
fuses at a salvage yard .

On a no-crank, the quickest way to a solution usually is to start probing voltages at the starter motor (SM) itself. There’s usually two wires connected to the SM, a thick one which is the main battery voltage, and a thinner one, which is for activating the start solenoid. With the key in “start” both should measure 10.5 volts or higher. Probe w/your volt meter between the SM terminal and the SM case. If both do and it doesn’t crank, replace the SM. If one or both don’t meet that 10.5 volt or higher test with the key in “start”, work backwards to find out why not. This is a task which often requires a wiring schematic to do efficiently. But it can be done the old fashion grunt-method by just physically tracing & probing the wires at intermediate points, beginning at the SM and working towards the battery.

Often a failed fusible link can carry enough current to indicate battery voltage on a meter and operate a test light but when any significant load is applied the light or meter would go dark. Also feedback across various circuits can falsely indicate voltage at a burned out fusible link.

From what you say about the trouble it seems you need to check for voltage getting to the ignition switch and to the dash fuses while the ignition is ON. If you have good voltage getting to the switch then check the power to the fuses in the dash. Also make sure the battery to chassis ground connection is good. If the connection is good there should be very little voltage across the wire while current is flowing through the wire.