84 ford F150 V8 5.0L engine lift points

Hey ya’ll got a question. Changing the oil pan on a 1984 ford f150 and there isnt enough room to remove pan unless lifting the engine by 1 to 2 inches or detach the transmission which is a no go for us. What are the recommended lift points on the engine for a cherry picker lift?

When I replaced the oil pan gasket on my F150, I unbolted the fan shroud and laid it on the fan.

I then removed the hardware for the motor mounts.

I then placed a floor jack with a hunk of 2 X 4 under the crank pulley and raised the engine.

When the engine was raised high enough, I stuck pieces of 2 X 4 in between the motor mounts and the frame.

I then removed the jack.

I was now able to remove the oil pan.

Tester

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I have used @Tester s method and it seems the safest, espescially for a DIYer. And there was a lot of 1x4 lumber cut into various lenghths with slots and notches cut into them that accumlated in a barrel at my shop for just such uses even though there were cherry pickers, lifts, etc. And a 4" length of 2x4 resting on a shop jack pad will prevent damage to the oil pan when jacking the engine up if the front of the pan is somewhat flat

If you must use a cherry picker removing the carburetor and installing a lift block is the safest method.

I recommend installing grade 8 bolts from the inside of the manifold, attaching nuts to them, then installing the adapter and attaching it with 2 nuts on each bolt. Then attach the chain into the front most hole to lift.

I have lifted a lot of engines using such a bracket without a problem but getting my hands between the engine block and frame worried me enough that I always stuffed in the wooden blocks as @Tester suggested.

It’s a good idea to stuff rags in the intake manifold once the carburetor is off to catch anything that might fall in.

Cherry picker? I was going to suggest some lumber stacked under the crank pulley and a floor jack but a couple of guys beat me to it.

There is a tool for this. http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html

It actually works very nice for something like this. A cherry picker or jack can easily get in your way while rolling around under the truck.

You will likely need to separate the pan a few inches and reach in and disconnect the oil pickup tube and screen. I don’t recall if you have to remove the pump or not. That likely depends on which style of oil pan you have. If you have to remove the oil pump, you may need to remove the distributor to make sure you get the oil pump driver properly seated into the oil pump. You can only lift the engine a couple of inches before you transmission bell housing will touch the floor board.

As for where to attach the chains… There is the carb plate that was listed above. Some engines have lift mount hooks already installed. There should be some threaded holes on the heads (7/16) if i recall correctly. If you take off your alternator, you can use one those holes and on the opposite side by the firewall, there should be another hole in the head that is unused. You could also remove a exhaust manifold bolt and use those holes. Make sure you use grade 8 bolts and a quality chain.