I tried to start my car this morning using my key fob and got no response. The car was completely dead. I had to use the physical key in order to get inside the vehicle.
I was then able to pop the hood and try to have my car jumped, but all it would do was click when trying to start the car. Also when I look on the dash information it says that my battery is perfectly fine at 14volts
I was thinking maybe the starter, solenoid or alternator but why would the car be completely dead but battery says full? is it possible that some of the cells are dead inside the battery and causing the read out to display it incorrectly?
when I had the jumper cables hooked up to my car I slapped the other two together and there was no sparks at all, so maybe it is completely dead.
just looking for anyone else’s opinion on what they think may be the culprit. thank you for taking the time to read this
Unless you have put a lot of miles on your car over the past two years, you don’t need to search for a fix because it is Chrysler’s responsibility to fix it under the terms of the various warranties.
A fully-warrantied car is the responsibility of the mfr/dealership to fix, and if you attempt to tell them what to do, they will likely ignore you. If you insist on a certain type of repair, and if it doesn’t work, then the cost of that repair will come out of your wallet, despite the warranty coverage.
Just have it towed to a dealership, tell them what you have observed, and leave the rest of it up to them.
Well, your dashboard lied to you! A brand new battery just sitting in the car at a full state of charge will be at about 12.9 volts maximum… so 14 volts is just wrong. Only when the engine is running will the voltage be 13.5 to 14.5 volts.
A voltmeter across the battery terminals will tell you if the battery is low (below 11.9 volts or so), or stone dead (below 6 volts or so).
Your jumper cables may not be heavy enough to supply enough current to operate the starter. With the jumper connected, the technician can push the trunk release button to access the battery to recharge or replace.
That is the voltage of the battery in the running vehicle you connected to.
It is entirely possible that the OP’s factory warranty will cover the cost of towing to the dealership. Has the OP actually read the details of his warranty coverage, which is detailed in the booklets sitting in his glove box?
It is even possible that the OP can get a free loaner car while Stellantis (which assumed all of the liabilities of Chrysler/Fiat) repairs THEIR warranty-related problem.
Even if Chrysler/Fiat/Stellantis cheaped-out on this benefit, the OP might have towing coverage as a part of his auto insurance policy.
I can’t speak to your battery’s condition, but suggest to avoid that test going forward. It could damage expensive to repair in-car electronics. As mentioned above, have it towed to the dealership, repaired under warranty.
What to Expect : The towing service will transport your vehicle to the Service Department of the closest Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep®, Ram, FIAT® or Alfa Romeo dealership. Please keep in mind, if you choose to go to another dealership, additional charges will apply if the added distance exceeds 10 miles.
If you are unable to provide a valid VIN, you will always be given the option to pay for the requested service. If eligible, we will reimburse you for the reasonable amounts you actually paid, based on the usual and customary charges for that service in the area where they were provided. Refer to your warranty manual for instructions.
Just my 2 cents. You just need a new battery. You have a battery warranty but it is different than the car warranty. They will pro-rate the battery but I don’t think the other charges will be covered. Why not just get a replacement battery at the dealer and put it in?
Edit: Well I stand corrected then. If it’s covered, just call the dealer, but you still need a new battery-likely.