Need help please. Wife car died the other day, we jumped it and it started and ran. Tried to start it the next day but it did not start. Had the car from day one and don;t believe we ever changed the battery. Bought a new die hard battery today $260 ugh!! Installed it and when the car started it died right away. Did the same thing the second time and it started but then died. Finally got it to keep running( didn’t sound right) but when pressed the gas pedal all the way down it would not go over 3k RPM. Any idea what the problem could be? Thank you very much.
When a battery is disconnected/dies, the computer loses its adaptive memory. This may cause the engine run rough or stall.
So, you may have run/drive the vehicle until the computer relearns its adaptive memory.
Also, the computer has rev limiter programmed into it. So it won’t let the engine RPM’s get too high if the vehicle isn’t in gear.
https://www.aa1car.com/library/battery_disconnect_problems.htm
Tester
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The rev limit in park is to prevent you from damaging the engine. Unless the check engine light is on, the engine should rev to normal limits while in drive.
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Thank you very very much . Funny my wife said she saw something like that when she googled the issue . So should I drive the car ? Thanks gain .
That’s all you can do for now.
Tester
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It’s also not a bad idea to have your charging system checked. A locally owned shop with a trustworthy rep is a good idea, but many auto parts stores will check it for free.
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Thank you , I appreciate it.
Do you ever have car serviced besides oil?
Shop has never mentioned 9 year old battery?
You can buy a $20 volt meter and check voltage while motor is running.
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Is the check engine light lit? If so, what are the codes?
Agreed. If I’m running the shop batteries get recommended for replacement after 6 years, regardless of how they test. After 6 years the chance of failure without notice rises dramatically.
I wonder where the OP lives. 10 year old batteries are almost unheard of here.
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I think it maybe. Going home for lunch. How would I get the codes? Thank you.
I do have volt meter. How would I do that?
If the check engine light is on you can stop at pretty much any big box auto parts store and they will read them for free. Don’t listen to them if they tell you that you need to replace some “part.” Just write down the exact code (in P0xxx format) and post it.
To do a basic check (not a complete one) of battery and alternator using a voltmeter, put it in DC Volts setting. Engine off, the battery should be in the vicinity of 12.7V. With the engine running you should read somewhere between about 13.5-14.5V ish.
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Both my 2012 Camry and my daughter’s 2010 Corolla had batteries that lasted 10 years. Cold but not often subzero climates are easy on batteries.
Well I just tried to drive the car and it sounded like it wouldn’t come out of first gear. The RPMs really wouldn’t go over two or three This light is on.
This is your check-engine light. You need to get the codes as mentioned above.
On another note, you’re driving on tires that are dangerously low and also wearing them out far faster than usual. I suspect you need to pay more attention to regular maintenance of this car.
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If the vehicle is not drivable, you need a tow truck, not a code.
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It’s didn’t show in the pic but a red lightning bolt keep flashing.
Got brand new tires a year ago but I hear ya 100%.
There is an electronic throttle body control calibration problem. Typically, after the battery is connected and ignition switched on, the PCM performs a throttle body calibration. You may have disrupted this process by trying to crank the engine.