Do you mean “amp meter”?
It is an amp clamp meter. It measures current inductively. Like this Clamp Meters | Clamp On Meter | Fluke
Something can be both green AND big 
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Good evening everyone… Sorry about not posting, finally got around to it today. Went and bought a new multimeter and a camp amp meter.
I was able to verify that it is a draw but couldn’t figure where it is. It was fluctuating between .45 and .8 amps. I have attached a link to the video. At about 12 seconds in you can here something turn on and then hum.
How long did you let it sit before doing the test (after setting everything up)?? And did you make sure no doors showed to be opened while doing the test??
It sat for a couple hours before trying. I even started this morning again.
Tested all the fuses in the 2 fuse boxes under the hood. Still the same. Now for under the passenger.
I’m not seeing anything happen at 12 seconds, just a blank screen. Does anyone else see what OP mentions?
That’s pretty big. Most newer cars are in 0.050 amp range, seldom above 0.1.
If you have anything connected to the electrical system that didn’t come with the vehicle new, those are the first suspects. Esp audio & security electronics and anything connected to the OBD II port. If so, disconnect them one by one while watching the draw.
Another idea, 0.8 amps/ 12 volts is about 10 watts. That should heat up that circuit’s fuse more than the other fuses, so you might try measuring the fuses’ temperatures, one by one, easiest w/an optical infrared-laser gadget. 10 watts could be a small light bulb , so be sure to check everywhere a small light bulb might be turned on, like in the glove compartment, etc.
Remember that if it sat with the doors closed and you open them that the vehicle will now have to go back to sleep mode before you can do the test again…
I hope you watched the videos in my 1st reply with the link to the videos Mustangman posted…
Yes I am aware of that. The door sensor is “closed”.
Pulled all the fuses and relays. All are good. When I tested it, I can hear whatever it is turning on is right behind the glovebox. Here is the video.
Sorry, I can not hear what was being said…
Remove the glove box to see/hear better what is making the noise…
The blower motor is typically behind the glovebox.
Checked the blower motor this morning by unplugging it, noise is still there.
Looks like for me it’s the heater core and ac unit?
It might be a ventilation-direction door in the heater/ac unit is trying to find its home position. Do you hear any click-like sounds?
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Yes when I break the current. It’s not where the glove I will have to try in a little bit to find where the click is coming from. All I know is that it’s getting tiring of trying to figure out where the draw is coming from.
The only thing I ever added was LED lights. And that was over a year ago. is from what I can tell.
It’s possible you’d see a vent door moving slightly if you exposed it to view. Can’t speak to how that’s done on your vehicle, but often requires removing the glove box.
Both my 50 year old truck and 30 year old Corolla have vent doors, but are cable controlled, no electronics involved. Never had a single failure. Newer vehicles usually use electronic-controlled actuators for the vent doors rather than a cable. Pretty common failure item by reports here. The computer commands the actuator to move into position, then the computer reads a position sensor to see if that movement actually happened. Likely something bizarre going on w/that. You’d think the folks who program the computer would know to stop trying after 5 minutes, b/c continued attempts would drain the battery.
If it is a vent door trying to find its position, the procedure for resetting everything is pretty simple. You will need the FSM (factory service manual) or equivalent (not a Haynes manual) to find the procedure.
If you don’t have access to a FSM, you might ask here:
So I took it to a mechanic and they found out the issue within 20 minutes.
Apparently the fuse box at the positive terminal was the issue. The fuses were good, but there was corrosion underneath.
A $40 part and no charge in labor. Took 5 minutes to replace.
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A poor connection at the fuse link holder, so the battery wasn’t dead. The battery voltages didn’t make sense, 12.6 volts and the engine won’t start.
In my experience 99% of the parasitic draw suspicions prove to be false.
Yep exactly what the issue was. Corrosion got under the connection. Haven’t had an issue since it was fixed on Monday.
And I was going to buy a new piece before posting but the fuses looked good.
Does your shop believe the corrosion at the fuse box was causing the large current draw as well? A bad power connection at the fuse box could easily cause an engine starting problem, but normally wouldn’t cause a big current draw draining the battery.