Dash and all electronics go black and car is totally dead. Doesn’t even click when trying to start it.
What have you already done to try to start it?? Jump start, new battery, checked battery cable ends etc etc???
Give us a little more detail…
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Brand new battery, new catalytic converter, basically had to have the transmission rebuilt, new shift gear box. We have had everything that the codes say fixed.
Welcome to the forum BTW…
What codes did/are you getting??
Again, the more info we have the better to help you…
Was the vehicle running great with no check engine light on and then it did this?? Or, what happened…
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There have been 6 codes for the transmission I don’t know exactly what the codes are. They all have to do with the gear shift and valves. Also emissions so the catalytic converter is now new. The actual gear shift box has been replaced. The transmission guy has now taken it out 2 times for repairs.
Did it do that after all this work was done to it??
It’s been doing that all along. Was one of the original issues
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Did you buy it new? How many miles?
6yrs old. Could have 44k miles or 144k.
Bought used, and rebuilt trans? Not a good history.
Certified used 3 years ago. It has 30,000 then and 70,000 now
Sound like you have an electrical issue, you might need to take it to an automotive electrical shop if people are throwing transmissions and exhaust parts at a Dash and all electronics go black problem or find a better mechanic/ auto repair shop…
An automotive electrical shop is a shop that specializes in the electrical/wiring parts of the vehicle, they can normally find intermittent electrical issues that regular repair shops can not, it is much easier to find a consent issue then one that only happens every now and then… I say this because it seems that other people are working on your vehicle and this is not a DIY job…
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Thank you! I appreciate the time you’ve given me!
Good advice above. If I had the problem myself I’d start by measuring the two voltages at the starter motor during a cranking attempt. If both voltages aren’t to spec (which I presume they aren’t), next I trace the electrical system backwards from the starter motor toward the battery.
There’s two other items I’d keep in my mind as possible suspects, the transmission neutral safety switch, and the the brake-interlock safety switch.
Ask your dealership (or google) about recalls & customer interest bulletins about potential known problems w/ the dashboard. This forum has a pretty useful search function, so it might be helpful if you looked through the lists of prior posts here about the Traverse, link upper right this page.
You are welcome to post the starter motor voltages your shop measures here. I expect you’ll get some more ideas.
Just my two cents but replacing cats and transmissions because of codes is highly unusual. If you have a bunch of codes that pop up, it can be related to more of a computer issue than the hard parts. Repeated multiple and unrelated codes can pop up from low battery voltage, a bad computer, body control module etc. I’d actually take it to a dealer before more work is done and especially taking out the trans a second time.
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Also agree with this being some kind of electrical issue.
I’ve probably suggested this at least 50 times to posters with no-crank problems here. The curious thing, I don’t recall a single time anyone has posted back with their measured voltages. I wonder why? I’m presuming when the shop makes the measurement it becomes obvious what the problem is, so no need to post back.
George, it is not a no crank no start issue, it is an intermittent every thing goes dead including the dash problem… If the whole vehicle looses power/goes dead, I’m pretty sure so does any power going to the starter… I am thinking something in the fuse box or a wiring issue…
The Cobalt’s (and HHR’s) have issues with the ECM/TCM loosing ground and causing issues, you can ground the cases of them both to the strut mount stud at the strut tower (used for jump starting) with added wire(s) and it takes care of the issue… I would hope that if the shop is able to do transmission internal work that they know how to check for a loose battery cable…
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OP, does your car ever do this when driving, bringing your trip to a complete halt, stranded on the side of the road? Or only when attempting to start it up after it has been parked?
Has anybody considered a failing ignition switch . . . ?!
I hate to say this . . . not really 
. . . I think you’ve had a bunch of clueless guys working on your car
The parts they’ve replaced have nothing to do with the symptoms you described, imo
These guys are in over their heads and just throwing parts at the car, out of pure desperation
As has been alluded to earlier . . . you need to find a shop with smarter guys, perhaps that auto electric shop
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If you had gone to the Chevy Dealership the catalytic converter, if indeed faulty may have been covered by the 8 year/80,000 mile warranty.
Too late now. You do need better mechanics.
Be prepared to pay for a proper diagnosis and repair.
Certified used means what? It was inspected? Does that imply it had a warranty?